The Arctic Road, Like the Atlantic Road but Better. 9 Comments


Lofoten Islands

Arctic Road

Not quite feeling myself today folks, so sorry in advance for the short update.

We drove back south on the E10 to Fredvang. This stretch of the road was marked on our map as a scenic route. These things are usually decidedly relative but a scenic route here in Norway means great vista’s and wiggly roads and today was no exception. As the E10 road started a gradual incline, we turned the corner and we got an amazing elevated view of what we have named ‘the arctic road’. A small stretch of road with high and low bridges connecting islands and inlets. The shallow bay waters provided a wonderful turquoise colour fringed with copper coloured seaweed as it washed up against the white sandy shore. It was one heck of a view and whilst smaller than the Atlantic road, it certainly had much more visual appeal. It looked wild, remote and inviting, so over the road we tootled. The drive over was great not just in terms of scenery but in excitement too, as the bridge was short and steep, so a fair old incline for Vin. As each bridge reduced in height it sort of made it feel like the big dipper. Over the Arctic Road until we rolled on to one of the small island and stopped at one of the many picnic spots on the island. A walk along the shore line with the dogs frantically sniffing anything and everything and Craig doing a bit of beach combing.

Back at Vin and we had lunch whilst watching a young Finnish couple cook an open lunch for their 5 children. Dad went to the edge of the open water and returned 10 minutes later with a selection of cockles, muscles and other tasty seafood morsels. They were clearly used to the camping life style and coping with so many young kiddies. Lots of admiration for them, I would be useless.

Back over the Arctic Road and for a second second look at the great road before taking a left and heading north. A quick stop at a Bunn Pris supermarket for some milk and bread before heading to Nusfjord. The drive was beautiful as we have come to love and expect in Lofoten Islands. Just before we arrived at Nusfjord we drove towards a huge steel grey cliff wall. The sun was peering over the top and it sun rays were lighting up the wet patches on the rock face, giving it depth and a contrast. Slowly but surely the road takes you right up to the face and by the time you reach the wall you realise just how big the wall is.

Nusfjord car park is only small and so we had to park up just outside the village. We parked on a small lay by near the fishermen’s hut and walked along the wood pathway to the village. This is one of Norway’s oldest and best preserved fishing villages. Today it is a museum for visitors and boasts an old-fashioned village store, a workshop making cod-liver oil, a sawmill and a forge. We had a lovely wander around the village whilst ducking and diving from nesting seagulls and birds.

With no overnight parking we headed a few kilometres over to Ballstad and eventually found a spot on the working fishing pier. By this point, I was feeling rather irate. I have a skin condition and every so often my skin flares up causing me to itch like crazy. Well today, its drove me mad and now I just want to ‘cool’ my skin, take a few tablets and head off to bed.

Nusfjord Fishing Huts

Nusfjord Fishing Huts

Our wild camping spot today is on the fishing pier at Ballstad over looking the fishing boats and harbour.

GPS position N068.071234 and E013.538234

Route: Ramberg to Ballstad

Weather: Low 11 and high 19, overcast with little bursts of sunshine.


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