Who would believe it is mid summer! We said cheerio to Heather and John, a couple of Brits who arrived at the car park last night. The EU outcome was clearly the topic of choice! Then after a quick top up with water, we left our salted cod head parking spot behind and continue north. The island road from the village of A to Moskenes was dramatic and bumpy, rising and falling as we twisted our way around the cliff road. As we glance to the peaks we could see the helicopter weaving in and out, clearly searching for something or someone. Eek, we do hope its nothing too serious. The mountains attract a lot of walkers but as we have seen, the weather changes by the hour from glorious sunshine to torrential rain and thick cloud. Not idea conditions for mountain hikes.
Just after Moskenes is the village of Reine. We pulled in, had a cuppa and waited for the drizzle to stop before we went for a wee cycle ride. Mac n Tosh jump in their baskets and hid under the blanket in an attempt to stay warm. Heading down the hill and the fresh ocean breeze had the dogs ears flapping away like pieces of cardboard. With their noses rammed with new smells they soon forgot the cold air. Reine village square was quiet with the odd walker popping in to the local shop for refreshments. The pretty village has lots of little timber houses set against the turquoise lagoon and the backdrop of the Lofoten Mountains. As we cycled down to the waters edge you could see clusters of rorbuer colonies, all eagerly awaiting the summer crowds.
With the rain clouds closing in we headed back and had a spot of lunch before we tootled around to Kvalvik. We parked on the fish cafe car park and had a brief walk around the dried fish frames. There are hundreds of these fish frames all over the island. On the whole they don’t smell but every so often your nostrils flare as the stinky fish waft hits you. We discovered they sell their cod heads to Nigeria and the salted fish to Portugal and Spain. Around the back of the factory we could see dried Angler fish, not sure what they are for but we sure know they are from deep, dark waters. These ugly fish have a cool way to catch their prey and if you’ve never seen them, you should google it. These clever buggers have a little fishing rod on their head with a glowing tip. The tip acts as bate to attract smaller fish and well, you can guess the rest. The fish cafe offers a variety of fish burgers and fish soup with fancy tourist prices too. The cheapest thing on the menu, fish soup at a knock down price of £14. Think we will stick to our cuppa soup!
Over more little bridges and on to the island of Hamnoy. Craig tootled over to the edge of the rocks to admire the view. As he looked to his left, a seagull was having a right good old toot at him. He had wandered up close and personal to a seagull without knowing. Craig took a photo and then shuffled a little closer. The seagull squawked and took flight. It became clear she was sat on her eggs. Just as Craig was about to take a photo of the eggs the bird swooped and dropped one almighty load of bird shit…all over him. Then as Craig stood up, it swooped again and the claws came out. Lucky he managed to duck. I have never seen so much bird poo in my life, I mean it really dropped its load. I don’t want to get too graphic but if you can imagine a pot of yoghurt with a splash of mustard then I think you’ll get the picture. Craig was literally speechless. I managed to hold back the laughter until he stuck his hand in his coat pocket to retrieve it looking loke he had dipped it in to a paint point. Without a word he burst in to laughter, too.
An hour later we resurfaced with a clean Craig and a motorhome full of unindented washing.
The sun was trying to break through the clouds, so we set off in the hope we could find somewhere go park and dry the clothes. The drive from Molnarodden to Flaksted was absolutely beautiful. A jagged coastline, vertical peaks, turquoise waters, rusty coloured seaweed and the odd fishing boat. It was a view you would never get bored of. We pulled in just outside Ramberg on island of Flaksted and after strategically placing the washing to dry we went for a walk on the beach. The crisp, white sand was so soft and but for the fact it was bloody freezing, it looked like the Caribbean. We walked, walked and walked until Mac n Tosh were pooped.
Early evening and we scooted back to Molnarodden on Eor. Craig had no jeans to wear (thanks to a pooping bird), so would you believe it, he put on his thermal pants and a pair of shorts over the top. He looked well sexy! This view deserves another toot and you know, second time around it still looked great. Eor is brilliant for just nipping here and there and seeing the places off the beaten track. Half the time we have no idea where we are going or where we have been but its great to just bumble around and see all the hidden gems….a couple of perfect spots for tomorrow!
Our wild camping spot today is just outside the village of Ramberg. The beach is to our left and our view over the Arctic Ocean is unspoilt and picture postcard material. Super spot.
GPS position N068.101354 and E013.248654
Route: A to Remberg
Weather: Low 11 and high 19, overcast with a few showers and odd burst of sunshine.