Yesterday, it bucketed it down! We had free electricity and water so we opted to stay put and have a duvet day. The morning passed, slowly. As the afternoon progressed, the wind settled and the driving rain turned to drizzle. By early evening, the sun came out to play peek a boo from behind the grey clouds. It slowly teased us out the door only to disappear like a shy child. We peered out over the lake, it look cold and uninviting, a contrast to the day before. Far out over the water, heading west toward Jondal, the dark rain clouds and their pale grey rain curtain were slowly moving towards us. Within a flash we were back under our duvet and several hours later in z land dreaming of sunny Norway.
The morning sun beamed through the blinds and we leaped out of bed. After a day of doing nada we were ready to take on the world. Quick shower and we were off. We wound our way down the coast to Jondal passing many a gushing waterfall and mud stream. We pulled up in to the tiny harbour and walked down to the ferry terminal, which was actually a big car park with a small wooden notice board displaying last years ferry times. We scanned the timetable only to raise our heads and see the ferry heading straight towards us. Jeez, thats going awfully fast. We moved. The ferry stopped with a creek and a jolt and within minutes everyone was disembarking along with a marching ticket master. His stern face and efficient walk made us pick up pace and scurry back to Vin. Within seconds of fastening our seat belts he was at our window with a beaming smile. Hei NOK265, please. We paid up, drove on and minutes later the ferry was full with around 20 cars, two lorries and Vin the motorhome, all on our way to Torvikbygd. These ferry guys don’t hang around.
The engine shuddered then we turned and slid out onto the bottle blue waters of Hardanger fjord. The waters were calm but as we looked back towards Jondal port the churned waters looked like a pan of simmering water. Next to us, four young Japanese lads were strangely excited and highly amused by their ferry crossing. They kept standing up to take pictures and point things out to each other. Maybe they were ferry virgins? But no wonder they were excited. We were excited too but for different reasons. There is something rather special about a ferry crossing, it feels like you are about to be transported in to another world…a new adventure.
Do we go left or do we go right? After a consultation with Tom Tom we turned right and continued hugging the coast. The roads were narrow with jagged sticky out rock and overhangs; and with every bend came an air of tension. Vin would slowly nudge around a rock and then dart down the road. A bit like chicken run only a few times we didn’t make it and came head to head with a big boy. Once with a bus and then with a cement mixer and on both occasions we had to shuffle back to a passing point. Even at the widest part the passing gap was only millimetres, which even had Craig holding breath.
We travelled down the picturesque fjord and on the opposite side of the water just tucked behind the fir tree covered slopes, the mighty Folgefonna glacier. Covered in virgin snow and stretching high in to the sky, it was captivating. Sometimes the best views are not up close but from afar and today, our view of Folgefonna glacier was superb. In between spotting the glacier, we bobbled in and out of coves and inlets until we found a perfect one for lunch.
After a bite to eat, Craig dismantled the dashboard to search for his long, lost half a peg. This peg was strategically located under the edge of the dash to stop a squeak…until this morning when it slid under the dash. Not only did he loose the squeak stopper but he gained an annoying slider. Needless to say, the squeak and sliding peg needed to be stopped! Operation Dash Off was a single man procedure, a cue for me to take the dogs for a walk. We tootled off down to a small harbour and pier. There an young pensioner was busy painting the flower pots and staining the hand rails. This tiny pier had lots of local TLC, you could feel it. Mac n Tosh reluctantly walked down the planks as I watched a little old man with bandy legs in his rolled up denim shorts and a string vest prepare his little boat for sail. Nets, buoys, cans and god knows what else joined him on his fishing venture down the Hardanger fjord.
Squeak and rattle free our journey along the windy road continued to the beat Gloria Estofan. A classic old tune, which got the toes tapping and the heads bobbling…rhythm is gonna get you lalalala. An old tune every so often, yeah. Then we took a bit of a right hook and jumped over the tip of a peninsular. It felt like we were high in the mountains but reality we were only 60 meters above sea level. That is the strange thing with the fjords, you feel like you are high up but you never are. Once over the peninsular we arrived at Eikelandsosen and spotted a perfect camping spot. Right on the edge of the water with a lawned area for Mac n Tosh, a great view down the fjord and a camper services just behind. We parked up and paraded our spot. We felt chuffed with our find and with the sun shining bright, we got out the deck chairs and attempted a sun tan.
It was one of those good days when all you want to do is put the barbie on and have a wee garden party. So guess what we did! We nipped a the corner shop ‘bonnprix’ and filled our basket with goodies. Craig treated himself to some beers, whilst I got some fresh tiger prawns. Like giddy kippers we headed back and prepared a BBQ feast. Garlic prawns, fresh salmon, succulent chicken, salt and pepper crispy pork and jacket potatoes. The BBQ feast was delicious and the beers, well deserved!
Our sleep spot tonight, on the edge of a fjord at the village of Eikelandsosen. Great spot, we just need a little Norwegian picket fence and we are sorted for the summer.
GPS position 060.241011, 005.743201
Route: Herend to Eikelandsosen
Weather, low 14 high 28. Toasty day although a little hazy with all the moisture in the air.