As we made our way through the winding roads deep into the mountains our cell service dropped; we knew we were in for a treat. The air was clean and crisp, the landscapes is beyond breathtaking, and the people are just amazing. Passing through small villages with folk waving at every opportunity.  All with genuine welcoming smiles. 

The massive Rila Mountains in southwestern Bulgaria are not only the highest between the Alps and the Caucasus, but also a prime destination for hiking in Bulgaria. The Rila National Park is a magnificent collection of jagged peaks, maiden forests and endless pastures topped by Musala, the 2,925-metre highest summit of the Balkans.

Craig turned off the main road and we started a slow ascent. The muddy road washed completely of tarmac was in need of some tlc. I smiled, braced myself as we bumped and bumbled along. 

I always think there is something magical about being disconnected and having no social media especially in the mountains.  Just following your heart and sharing life with your soul mate. At 5km an hour our progress was slow and squeaky. At the peak we headed deep in to the forest and spent the next few hours fixated on brown bears….totally amazing. 

The mountainous terrain of the Pirin Mountains is an ideal habitat for brown bears. We know little about and for that very reason we find them fascinating.  Reading the internet we know they once thrived here but, as elsewhere in Europe, their populations are now dangerously small. Until quite recently, dancing bears were a common sight on the streets of Bulgaria. Thankfully, this cruel practice was outlawed in 1998. 

Craig broke my trance and managed to tear me away from the watching the bears.  Although personally, I could have stayed for days just watching them. The are so beautiful. We made our way to Bansko the gateway to the Pirin Mountains, characterised by steep granite peaks and the alluring shapes of the sand pyramids.  If I am honest, my head was still with the bears. The ski resort of Bansko is extremely quiet with all the sports shops closed and just the odd cafe shop open.  

Several miles out of Bansko and high up in the Pirin we parked up. In front a dozen or so tents with the odd pit fire. Smoke bellowed out from a small restaurant and hikers scurried over to enjoy an evening feast.  Night is closing in and the temperature is due to plummet. Craig finished preparing dinner, chicken chasseur whilst I took the dogs for a walk.  I return half an hour later to a warm and cosy motorhome, we tuck in to dinner and settle down for the night. 

Our Bumble wild camping spot Bansko N041.766703, E023.424103

We wake to glorious sunshine and spend the next two days hiking in and around the area. The dogs loved it, we loved it and we got to experience a side of Bulgaria we expected (click photo to enlarge). 

Baikousheva Mura Some 1,300 years old, this massive Bosnian pine is Bulgaria’s oldest tree