Today, we are taking a historical train journey, the Sargan Eight Line from Mokra Gora to Sargan Vitasi.  Our initial plans to catch the 10 am train are somewhat delayed when our water pump fails. Its been a bit temperamental for the last couple of weeks. Sadly today, our wiggle and shake was no longer a temporary fix. Located in the fresh water tank its not easy access. On top of that, the tank is in the middle of the garage, it was like open heart surgery. The contents of the garage were spread across the station lawns, whilst Craig dismantled the back panel to obtain access to the tank. Thankfully, Craig is a dab hand at fixing stuff and our spare pump from our previous motorhome, is quickly adapted and fitted in to place. Panic over as we all enjoy our first brew of the day come lunchtime.

The sun is shining and after several days of heavy rain everyone is full of high spirits. Craig purchases our ticket at £5.50 each and board the train. We board carriage number three along with Mac n Tosh to find the carriage full to bursting point. We shuffle our way along and perch on the end of a bench seat.  Summer holidays have just begun and grandparents with walking sticks, parents with enough stuff for a two week holiday and children with backpacks and are fighting for a place in one of the five traditional coaches. Its clear we are the only non Serbian tourist in the carriage and become the focal point until the guard blows his whistle and slowly depart.

Somehow, everyone squeezes aboard and, on time at 13.30, the Sargan Eight pulls out past Mokra Gora signal box, rounds a curve and heads for the hills. Passing by a mix of traditional wooden houses and sacred spring water surrounded by lush vegetation. 

Over the tannoy a pre recorded message tells the history of the train, first in Serbian and then English.  With high volume and the sound of the train tracks it hard to understand. Thankfully, we have our tourist booklet from the ticket office which tells us it was originally built in 1925 as part of the Užice to Sarajevo narrow gauge railway.  But this is as far as we got because the views were too good to miss.

As we lean out the window the speakers start to blast traditional Serbian music and everyone starts to wiggle.  Faces light up, people start to sing and the carriage turns from a train ride to a full blown Serbian experience.  It was wonderful to see and the little girl in our carriage was more than happy to show us her dancing talent.  We rarely make much more than 15 miles an hour, which is all you want with good music, good company and a good view.

We rattle into a tunnel. One of 22 on the line, their entrances all numbered and marked with the length.  We stand at the open window and let the cooling air blow over us as we snake round corners and in and out of tunnels dug into the hillside like rabbit holes. As we climb, the plum trees and wild flowers give way to grassy meadows and clusters of Serbian spruce.

Here comes another tunnel

The Šargan Eight line is named after an engineering feature that uses a figure of eight loop.  The loop is created when the train travels 300 metres high up the gorge.  As we approached the peak, the train grinds to a halt. The train guard jumps off and shouts everyone to disembark. One by one we join him as he points out the figure of eight loop in the hills below.

Mac n Tosh our best buddies

By the time we reach our furthest point at Sargan Vitasi we have covered 10 bridges and 22 tunnels.  Time for everyone to take a well earned ice cream break and stretch their legs.  Vitasi train station has lots to see from old carriages, wooden churches and old trains. You can easily spend half an our walking around but fifteen minutes and we are off again (so we stopped at the station following day).  

On the way back we stop at a couple of other stations for more pictures. In Mac n Tosh’s case, more piddles. Sadly, the line was closed in 1974, but determined locals battled to reopen it. The line has been fully operational for tourists since 2003.  With steam trains pulling old fashioned wood panelled carriages up the mountain for a two-hour round trip.

Engine & Shelter

To round off the day, we had a lovely dining experience at the train station restaurant. Located between the village of traditional wooden buildings built for the movie set, Life is a Miracle and the train tracks. It certainly was full of character.  Craig had the chicken escallops and I tried the traditional pork kebabs. With full tums, we wandered back to Vin, perched on the train station car park and enjoyed a G&T at sunset. It feels good to be sitting outside, warm but most of all, dry.

Our Bumble wild camping spot Mokra Gora N043.792228, E019.506731

cheers