The dawn summons or Salat al-fajr is one of five calls to prayer. It marks the Muslim day but rarely do we hear because we are sound asleep. This morning however, the spectacular prayer call is like a rolling wall of sound rising from the various mosques. We are cradled in a cove and surrounded by bowl of low hills, like a natural sound system. I somehow find the echo of the call rather haunting and beautiful. Just as I drift back to sleep, there are sounds of life, shuffling flip flops and the swish of a broom.  The constant parade of cleaners keeping the Turkish parks spotless clean has just swarmed our motorhome. 

Our Bumble wild camping spot Giresun N040.914599, E038.404311

View from the top of the castle

After breakfast, it is time to give Eor a blast in to Giresun, the pretty port arranged around a hilltop castle.  The castle crowning the peninsula is thought to have been built upon the order of Pharnakes I in the second century B.C.  It is one of the most visited monuments of the city. From here can adore the magnificent landscape of Giresun as you walk around the castle walls…but dont look down! The castle rises from the very centre of the city and also has a well known Kale Park. Only parts of the wall are strong enough to walk along but it is well worth it for the views. Here you can also see temple remains, caves as well as a soldiers’ cemetery. At the bottom, an old Russian Orthodox church dating from the 18th century restored and converted to a museum.

The grass slope leading up to the castle is dotted with trees. It might be early but the Turkish love their outdoor picnics and families are out enjoying a morning feast. A n picnic is laid on carpets and cushions puffed for the elders. At the base, a chap snaps twigs for his array of teapots. All lined up and perfectly brewed for his next client.

Anyone for Tea?

The historic town of Giresun was founded more than 2000 years ago as the Greek colony of Cerasus. And strangely enough it feels Greek with all the beautiful stone buildings and mosques.  Because its ancient name means `cherry’ in Greek, the town is credited with introducing cherries to Europe. Today, however, the hazelnut drives Giresun’s economy and lucky for us August is the month for picking, drying and bagging the nuts. No matter where you look from rooftops to pavements the little brown pods are basking in the summer sunshine. The climate in these parts is perfect for the humble nut and the area has some of Turkey’s finest orchards. 

Can you spot the hazelnuts?

Giresun’s centre is on the coast road and at midday it is bustling with people. To the edge, a bronze statue of hazelnut pickers. Beyond the square, hundreds of street with swarms of shops and shoppers. We ride up and down the alleys checking out the activity and soaking up the atmosphere. Before finally heading back to Mac n Tosh via the beautiful stone clocktower (click photo to enlarge).

Main Square

In the afternoon, we reach Trabzon, a bustling town of leafy squares, blacksmith’s markets and cobbled lanes.  Above the sea where sailors jostled in beer halls. For once, we had a walk without the camera and so the only shot we have is of Aya Sofya cathedral taken as we fly by in the motorhome. 

For a sleepy spot we seek the solitude of the suburbs. A small coastal village of Arsin with a pleasant marina and restaurant. On route, there is a minor jam caused by a cow munching on some taste turf along the central reservation. No one seems impatient to pass the cow but a slight shudder or slowing in traffic and boomshackala… honking horns and wild men. It’s the way life is in this extraordinary but mesmerising Country. 

Our Bumble wild camping spot Arsin N040.954183, E039.941511

The following day we make use of our surrounding free facilities. Half a day cleaning and washing followed by hours of playing ball with Mac n Tosh. They too enjoyed the endless supply of fresh flowing water to quench their sporty thirst. A nip to the supermarket just like our friend Meg for our bi weekly shop…just a few thousand kilometres between us. In the evening, we treated ourselves to a nice piece of fillet steak. At £8kg we could hardly say no.  For Craig there is just one thing missing, a beer or a nice glass of red. Off licenses are far and few between here unless of course you know a friend of a friend of a friend. Tomorrow, maybe we will find a friend.