We step outside and they are already there, watching us from high on the mountain peaks overlooking the water. The four of us are still trying to wake up from a great nights sleep when Craig spots a silhouette. “There” he whispers. It takes a while to spot the red deer but when I do, I spot dozens. They are watching our every move as they graze in the morning sun. Mac yaps and in second they disappear sending rocks and rubble crashing down the slope. 

We head back along the bumpy road to Yusofeli.  The town is in full swing and as we pass through the main street everyone is waving at us. It feels awfully weird but equally nice to have several hundred folk welcoming you to their town. The sad this this town will soon be under water.  When completed, Yusofeli Dam will be Turkey’s highest and world’s third highest dam. The water that will fill the valleys of Yusufeli will destroy numerous old beautiful villages and historical places.  The dam was due to be finished this year but latest rumours say it is at least another 10 years off. (click to enlarge photo)

As we make our way along the D50 to Artvin the next major city along the Çoruh river. Our view travelling through villages and past the waterfalls, apiaries and dairy cows dotting the mountainsides, all seems blissfully calm. However, our attention is not on the villages it is on the dam construction. The scale of the dam project is like nothing we have seen before and to use Craig’s phrase “its biblical”. The mountains are so beautiful and it is extremely sad to see man hacking away at mother nature. 

On our final ascent to Artvin, we are pulled over at a police check point. At least a dozen police and armed guards circle our motorhome. Its a bit nerve wrecking but I guess a dam of this size needs protection. Our passports and papers are checked and once they are happy we are who we say we are they relax.  I deflate too. 

We arrive in Artvin and park up alongside Çoruh river. The dam project has really caught our attention and we have a search for information via google. We find our the basics like the dam wall is over 260 metres high, it opened in 2016, there are 10 power plants in total, 332 MW power installed and an average annual production of 1 billion kWh. The dam includes an underground powerhouse, which is one of the deepest underground excavations in the world. The road and infrastructure to support will take years to complete. However, our search for the impact as well as more details is restricted. The Turkish networks do not like you having certain information and wikipedia and other sites are off limits, for now. 

Only when standing on a street in the city of Artvin and looking east toward the scarred landscape can you really see the impact.  The ginormous Deriner hydroelectric dam, a mega infrastructure projects like no other, it must have some impact. To add more devastation to the area we find out a copper mine is now part of a new project. It really is hard to comprehend, something this size must threaten farmers’ livelihoods and locals’ health? 

Artvin Dam

We were so captivated by the dam we never spotted the castle above us! Good job it lit us in bright flashing colours otherwise we would have never seen it. Ah well, plenty time to explore Artivin tomorrow. 

Our Bumble wild camping spot at Artvin GPS position N040.929374, E041.761919

We hadn’t planned on visiting Artvin but we the camouflaged castle and huge 38ft statue a few hundred feet above us caught our curiosity.   

Out popped Eor and off we went.  A winding drive midway up a mountainside takes you to Artvin centre. On route we stopped at the castle but sadly it is still under military occupation. Protected in every angel by army officers in bullet proof vests! Never mind, we will get a photo further up the hill and from the road. No chance the army guys were having none of it. 

Artvin its self is a charming city.  Spread over a steep hillside with several mini towns along the way. A wander around and you find beautiful old Turkish houses, walkways, elevated verandahs   and plenty kebab shops. We opted for the ‘hot doner’ bistro with classy plastic trays and forks for lunch. A refreshing change from freshly baked bread, which we seem to be eating way too much.  

We can see Ataturk statue but can’t get there!

So how do we get to the biggest Ataturk statue in Turkey? We can see the monument on another hill facing the city but we cant see the road. Craig has a look on the next to useless GPS and selects what he thinks is the statue.  Off we go winding up and up and up.  An hour later and we find ourselves at the ‘festival’. We drive on in curiosity to find its the Kafkasor bull fighting arena.  The annual event is held every year and it is the only bull ring in Turkey. Not such a glam place and looks rather unloved apart from the odd grazing cow. 

Love this photo

So how do you get to the tallest 38m statue of Ataturk…we have no idea!  But, its Saturday night and Craig’s found an Ekomoni store. They sell alcohol and so its a beer and movie time tonight. Better than sitting outside to be eaten alive by the flesh slicing and biting deer flies. We’ve been really lucky with insects up until now, hardly seen any but now the dam biting flies are out in force.  

Before tonight’s movie, Craig and I tuck in to dinner. A freshly baked bread – naked, no butter, no jam just plain old bread. I hope our loss of appetite returns soon otherwise we are going to look like two baked cobs. Washed down with Efes beer, Craig begins his acquaintance with the life saving products of the Efes Brewery.

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