Day 51: A Long Jaunt Through Volatile Land to Mount Nemrut 14 Comments


We debate where next and agree to disagree on the destination. Craig wants to press on North and I want to stay south/west then head north.  What a nice situation to be in! The D950 out of Mardin towards Diyarbakir is excellent condition. After a quick stop at Migros supermarket in the new city we head to the countryside. Pronouncing half the Turkish names is a struggle but throw in dual naming and we are completely lost. The majority of the towns seem to have both a Turkish and Kurdish name, poor GPS is even confused. 

The whole Mardin province is an agricultural area producing wheat, barley, and sesame. Angora goats are raised for mohair and there is a small cotton and woollen weaving industry. In addition to Turks, the province has large populations of Arabs and Kurds, which is more evident as we approach Diyarbakir. 

The mass complex of buildings and walls that stretches for miles is called a Diyarbakir.  The name given to the city by the Arab Bakr tribe and means ‘place of the Bakr’. This huge city is an area the FCO recommend you avoid unless essential. It can be a highly volatile city with sudden Kurdish protests and demonstrations. This is the city were 1000’s of Kurdish refugees fled in PKK war in 90’s. It is also renowned for pick pocketing and badly behaved kids. After having a bad experience of kids the other night, we glad sail through the city without even a glance. 

The street are full of veiled, henna-tattooed women, and men wearing baggy trousers and traditional headdresses or flat caps. It clearly is predominately Kurdish. Concrete apartment blocks and half built houses line the highway.  Crowded pavements as kids squat inches from the traffic and men drink tea. We expect military and police presence, but nothing. With all the hype around Kurds and the amount of military check points near Mount Ararat, we expected more. We are surprised – we try and rationalise but can’t. Clearly something does not stack up but chancing of finding out what will be impossible. The check points are replaced by giant billboards, the first we’ve seen in Turkey.  

At Diyarbakir, we change to the D360, a shuddery road that shakes and rattles us to pieces. Well at least we have a wash on in the garage that should be nicely swooshed.  By 5pm we reach our destination, Nemrut Dagi. We park up at the visitors centre and make a mad dash for it. 

Our Bumble free parking spot at Nemrut Dagi GPS position N037.969023, E038.731573

The route from the centre to the top of Nemrut Mountain (about 1 km) must be travelled on an official minibus, which costs 5TL. It drops you next to a ruined building, which once served as a ticket booth, but is now a rubble scar on the landscape. From here, you climb to the top of Nemrut along one of two paths that lead quite steeply uphill. You have to walk the last leg of the trip, which takes at least half an hour if you are brisk (click to enlarge).

We made sunset just in time and the views were amazing but we really didn’t get chance to see the famous heads, so we will be back tomorrow at sunset! 


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14 thoughts on “Day 51: A Long Jaunt Through Volatile Land to Mount Nemrut

  • Dave Worrel

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  • Joan

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