Day 53: King Antiochus I & his Commagene Kingdom 14 Comments


After a nice hot shower and a bit of breakfast, we decide to explore the rest of Nemrut Dagi National Park. Vin rolls out the car park and follows the steep paved road to the bottom. Here the road splits in two with no signposts?  We debate then take a left and follow the signs for Arsemia. Soon the paved disappears and dirt takes over.

Hairpin bends on dirt!

We rock and roll and curse the bloody roads until the most stunning view appears. We are gob smacked and so pleased we took the bumpy road because the rewards are stunning. A little further we pass through the tiny village of Kayadibi.

Once at Arsemia, we take a walk with dudes to what is clearly a rarely visited area. Here we walk for miles amongst the dirt track to caves, castle and statues.  This is King Antiochus I and his Commagene kingdom, an area I never even knew existed until today.

We spent the whole day driving around the area to the site of Eskikale, Yenikale, Karakus Tepe and Cendere Bridge. (click to enlarge photos).  At Eski Kale there is a large stele depicting Apollo, the sun god. Further along are the bases of two stelae depicting Mithridates I Callinicus, with Antiochus I, the taller stele, holding a sceptre. Behind here, a cave entrance leads to an underground chamber built for Mithras-worshipping rites.

Amazing views

 

 

Further uphill (now huffing and puffing) is a stone relief portraying Mithridates I shaking hands with the ancient hero Heracles. At the side, another cave temple descends 158m through the rock.  We take a peak inside but the steps into the temple are dangerous and pretty uneven. The long Greek inscription above the cave describes the founding of Arsameia. On the hilltop are the ruined foundations of Mithridates’ capital.

Yenikale is also of great historic interest, and in the area of old Kahta. This castle was built on very steep rocks, and has water depots, baths, mosque, and a hidden water road that leads to river Kahta. There was once a palace here, but what’s now evident are the ruins of a 13th-century Mamluk castle.

Castle Blends in to Landscape

Cendere Bridge, built with one arch on two rocks, crosses the narrowest point of the river Cendere. According to the epitaph written on the columns of the bridge, the Commagene cities had built it in honour of Roman Emperor Septimus Severus and his wife and sons. The humpback Roman bridge built in the 2nd century AD. The surviving Latin stelae state that the bridge was built in honour of Emperor Septimius Severus. Of the four original Corinthian columns (two at either end), three are still standing.

Our final stop of the day, tumulus of Antioch with what must be the most amazing view of the Commagene Kingdom. Karakus Peak Tumulus, in which the women of the royal family were buried, is a 21m tall tumulus 10km south-west of Arsameia. A handful of columns ring the mound – there were more, but the limestone blocks were used by the Romans to build the Cendere Bridge.

We sip drinking cay with the local cafe owner whilst watching the sunset.  Absolute brilliant day.

Our sleepy spot view

Our Bumble wild parking spot at Karakus GPS position N037.868006, E038.587384


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14 thoughts on “Day 53: King Antiochus I & his Commagene Kingdom

  • Fiona Potts

    OMG – I took a sharp intake of breath with that photo of the hairpin with the loose gravel!!! I’m not sure I’d’ve gone down there even in my 4×4!! Very brave you two!!! xx

  • Robert Ellis

    Well this is what I call a trip of a life time ,I’ll be surprised if you don’t make it for Xmas or New Year,yo enjoy
    You enjoy yourselves ,l don’t know if I told you or not ,but my neighbors son dropped Dead last week Heart Attack 42 yrs of age ,is funeral is tomorrow,no age ,you just don’t know what is around the corner,I’m quite busy for a couple of days with one thing and another,so I’ll say cheerio for now loads of luv Popsxxx Mac n Tosh woof woof xxx

  • Marc Loyal

    You guys are amazing and doing some very very very cool stuff. The photos are gorgeous and the landscapes are stunning. Thank you.

  • Dianne Whitehead

    Your photos are amazing, what type of camera do you use? And of course great subject matter and write ups, in awe of what you are doing

  • James Wilton

    Jo how do you get on with the language barrier? I would love to travel there but I don’t speak any Turkish. I guess you need some basic in order to do what you do?

  • Kerry Ann

    Your posts are amazing. As soon as I’ve got time I shall read your blog from start to finish. I’m looking forward to reading about the places and looking at yourphotos. Superb adventure.

  • Sandie

    Speechless!! It took and takes courage to do what you are doing and you are an inspiration. Have a wonderful day and thank you for brightening mine x