As we drive up into the Ihlara village we are reminded of the severe beauty of the valley. The simplicity of the cave dwellings, the materials that blend with the landscape, the 1000’s of tiny pigeon holes and the harmony of the village with its environment.
We head west towards Konya and it doesn’t take long for the landscape to change. The scenery is a depressing mixture of scrub and barren steppe.
Tootling along the edge of Asksaray town we spot a bright, clean and green park running alongside the river. The well maintained lawns and trimmed trees looks awfully bright and a little out of place in this parched landscape. But it is enough for us to stop and we enjoy a walk along the paved riverside in to the town centre. Mac n Tosh happily bounce along as we chat about the possibility of a self build camper. Something we often debate the pro’s and con’s but this trip has really wet Craigs appetite. We wander around the nice, modern town with low rise residential buildings. We notice elements but our deep conversation on a self build ‘unimog’ means poor Asksaray doesn’t even get a photograph.
The highway to Konya crosses the uninspiring Anatolian steppe. A flat grasslands as far as the eye can see. With only the occasional tumbleweed and a few mountains in the distance to break the monotony. I try my best to keep awake but the hum of the road and the warm sunshine send me in to the land of nodding dogs. I wake with a jolt as Vin pulls in for a pit stop. To our right, a huge wall surrounded in scaffolding.
We wander over and its a caravanserais. We pay our 5TL (70p) and learn a little about how the Seljuks built these “inns” along the Silk Road route. This particular one in the village of Sultanhanı is home to one of the most stunning travel inns still standing. Built in 1229, during the reign of the Sultan Alaaddin Keykubad I, and now 800 years later it is being restored and in many places, rebuilt.
The wonderful carved entrance can just about be seen through the scaffolding. Step inside to a large courtyard surrounded by rooms. In the centre, a raised prayer room, and to the rear, a doorway leading to a massive stable. Now home to hundreds of pigeons perched on the arches, domes and pillars.
Our last section of the journey does not take long and we are rewarded with an excellent free motorhome aire. I say aire but the Turks call it a park. It is clean, flat with full on electric, water, showers, beautiful gardens and even security gates. After all the dirt and dust parking it feels like heaven and the dogs! Well they nip outside for a tinkle and they return the same colour. Usually they return with filthy bellies and a grey dust coat. Behind us is a general park with gardens, bbq points, pagodas and a small kiddies park.
Our Bumble free camping spot at Konya GPS position N037.869781, E032.550082
Time is pushing on, so rather than rush to see the sites we make use of our facilities. Craig cleans the outside and I do the inside whilst the dudes run bonkers around the gardens. Its been a while since they had free run on grass and they lap it up.
I’m so excited to read about the rest of your posts on Turkey, I am planning to go there in a few months! It is at the top of my Travel-To list, and has been for 3 years. I can’t wait!
I was in Turkey for a couple of months last April. Like you, definitely was not what I expected. Was I confused, overwhelmed, scared, nervous, frustrated? Yes, 100%. But despite all of that, it did shake up my head, in this way that somehow had a direct effect on my heart. I fell in love with the compassion these people showed on a daily basis. They were charismatic, full of life, gritty, authentic and funny. Cay and Turkish music, and the smooth but weirdly fast soundtrack of their beautiful land. All of that plus having to overcome, or just embrace really, all of those initial feelings made my time in Turkey totally worth it, and totally revelatory. Btw I was backpacking!
The first ever travel blog I followed was about a British couple driving a Unimog in South America. I think building your own would be a great idea. Go for it 🙂