Once we leave the lakeside of Egidir, the smooth surface of the D330 take us further in to the Western Taurus Mountains. Eventually we turn on to the D685 the virtually empty road rises and falls and snakes around the White Mountain. We drive along the knuckle of land that takes us to an altitude of 5,300 feet and an ancient mountain top city. Almost buried by the shadow of the apex and tucked neatly in to the ravine are the remains of Sagalassos.

We park up on the newly surfaced car park and pay 12TL (£1.50) entrance fee. We quite like archaeological sites but our lack of historical knowledge makes it hard to place it context. The sheer enjoy of wandering around finding various ruins and trying to imagine what it was used for. Its like one big jigsaw puzzle with all the broken pieces just waiting to be matched together. Sagalassos is enchanting in more ways than one (click to enlarge photos).

Sagalassos was the pottery production centre of antiquity. The archeological findings of over 50 kilns and workshops indicate a thousand years of continuous pottery production. With the combination of red clay and the abundance of natural springs it made it an ideal place for high quality tableware. The whole walk way is dotted with broken pottery, but as we look up we see the rise of a series of graceful ruins. One of them, the ancient agora, is especially elegant. A grove of slender columns made from white marble outlined against a beautiful sky. As we wind up the stone path towards the arched gateway we had no idea of the beauty that lay before us. A restored and functioning monumental fountain with a facade of memorial columns and statues.

Everything in this city is so well planned. I notice the natural terraces on the mountain slopes for the large scale monuments. Craig notices the subterranean vaulted chambers with a sewer system connecting to many drains. The large terraces and huge public square with a magnificent retaining wall for the elaborate monumental fountains. Water is collected, distributed, and displayed in this beautiful fountains where water still flows for over 2,000 years, which is simply amazing to watch!

The amazing fountain

The city was rediscovered in 1706 by a French diplomat who claimed to see a city “built by fairies”. But it wasn’t until 1986 when the Belgium archaeologists started to excavate and restore the site. We follow the archaeologists dirt track until we come across the eye catching Hero column with thirteen reliefs. With its carved statues of a young girls gracefully dancing, it’s an ingenious way of telling a story and creating a water outlet at the same time.

The path winds up the hill behind Archangel Michaels church, south agora and food market. We pass a complex of sixth century cave dwellings that extend as far as the eye can see. Ancient tombs extending right across the hillside, a herds of goats pick away at the scrubby grass that covers them.

Mac n Tosh mooch in the caves

The extent of these ruins gives some idea of the importance of the city of Sagalassos. Much of which still stands, built into the folds of the hills. The huge urban mansion with more than 80 rooms. A well preserved library with ornate mosaic floor and dozens of deities with exquisitely sculpted robes adorn the old Greek settlement.

One of the many beautiful statues

Further on, looking out over the valley, is one of the most perfectly located theatres we have ever seen. In excellent condition too considering no restoration. Time seems frozen as I climb on the stage surrounded by 9,000 seats. The steep stone tiers rising and curving around in front of me. I test the acoustics with a few claps followed by a bark or two from Mac n Tosh. Our performance goes unnoticed by Craig who clambers around seeking the perfect photo point. Standing high on the top steps with breathtaking views over the city and surrounding lands. We exit through its eerie tunnel, where performers and contestants once entered. Keystones balance precariously and we stumble by.

The city’s history goes back thousands of years.  Hittite documents of 2,000 BC mention a city called Salawassa.  It was conquered by Alexander the Great in 333 BC when he was on his way to Persia, and was subsequently introduced to Hellenic culture.  The city really flourished after joining the Roman Empire in 25 BC. Sagalassos was continuously occupied until 13th century, until a combination of earthquakes and the plague caused its decline.

View of the site from the theatre

During recent archaeological excavations entire statues, some of a colossal scale and in very good state of preservation, have been recovered. Including the head, leg and feet of Emperor Hadrian’s 15 feet high statue. Plus the head and legs of Emperor Marcus Aurelius’s statue. The site of Sagalassos remains well preserved with its monumental structures, where in some cases almost all the original building stones can be recovered. It is truly exceptional and unique to find the ruins of a middle sized but highly developed ancient town in such a well-preserved state.

Ornate facade

Such treasures would be dazzling enough in a museum, but to find them, intact and largely unspoiled, where they were laid 2000 years ago is almost unbelievable. The excavations continue intensively and new finds are brought to the surface every day which make the lost ancient city more attractive and exciting.

By the time we finished night time was fast approaching. We had hoped to overnight in the site car park but sadly, not permitted. We slowly made our way down the mountain road to Ağlasun.

A small village with no street lights, lots of wild dogs and as the road signs are non existent it’s impossible to tell where you are going. We stopped, set up our stall and then moved on four times. Night time is never a good time to find a sleepy spot. We eventually came to rest at the side of a concrete pad surrounded by high security fence. Little did we know we’d parked outside the home of the Chief of Police.

Our Bumble wild parking spot at Ağlasun GPS position N037.676326, E030.519611