If you ever find yourself in Pamukkale, Turkey, please stop on the way to the travertine pools.

About 14 kilometres before you arrive at Pamukkale village take a left turn. Head towards the village of Merkezefendi and to the ruins of Laodicea. At the entrance, pay the smiley gentleman 15TL (£2) per person and drive straight ahead. Park up just outside the cafe and walk towards the distant columns. Keep walking, even when you think you’ve gone too far. You’re on your way to the real highlight of Laodicea.

Your destination is Syria Street.

You’ll know when you’ve arrived because you will look back and think wow,wow,wow. This ancient city is not just any city, it is a mega city. And now, all that’s left to do is walk for hours but don’t forget to pick your jaw off the floor, it really is mind blowing.

Welcome to Laodicea archeological site and restoration.

Once on the site, we expected a few of ruins, as you would. Instead we stepped into a world not so much like a ruined site at all and very much unlike any other archaeological world we’ve wandered through before. It was a live site with 100’s of people restoring and rebuilding the mega city. You could literally see the place taking shape before our very eyes. It was fascinating and we felt so privileged to be allowed site.

We didn’t even know this site existed…but that was all about to change.

After reading the initial story of the find, we commenced our tour of the jaw dropping and intriguing mega city. Archaeologist were concentrated at key points on the site. Most seemed more than happy to take a break from their work in order to say hello and point things out. Happy to explain aspects of what they do or in most cases, come and say hi to Mac n Tosh.

Laodicea is well located on a high plateau and surrounded by the rivers Lycos, Kapros and Asopos. Little wonder the city has an ancient history. As excavations in the area have revealed architecture, pottery, obsidian and flint stone finds dating back to the 4th millennium BC (click to enlarge photo).

However, much of what you see today comes from the Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine periods. Including the largest ancient stadium in Anatolia (280m by 70m), two theatres, four bathhouse complexes, four agoras, six fountains, two monumental portals, a council house, temples, and monumental streets. It is also surrounded by cemeteries on four sides.

Laodicea is an ancient city founded by Seleucid King Antiochus II in honour of his wife, Laodice. With the Battle of Magnesia in 190 BC and the Treaty of Apamea signed in 188 BC, the region passed to the Pergamene Kingdom. Finally, in 133 BC the last Pergamene king ceded the region to Rome in his will. From the 4th to 6th centuries AD, it became one of the ‘must sees’ of the Byzantine world since it contained one of the Seven churches mentioned in the Book of Revelation. It became a prosperous Roman market town on the trade route from the East. Famous for its woollen and cotton cloths.

Alas, its favourable location was also its downfall. It lies in an earthquake zone and the city was damaged and rebuilt many times. It was finally abandoned around 600 AD. Following its abandonment, Laodicea served as a stone and lime quarry.

As the city was buried, it is a case of digging and carefully scraping away the dirt. The work undertaken by the archaeologists to reveal Temple A and Syria Street is absolutely fabulous. Delicately restored with protective pathways, so you can see the astonishing mosaic floors, alters and archways. As we walked around they were busy hurling up sections of the East Byzantine Gate, constructed by the Emperors Theodosius. Watching the recreation brought shivers down my spine and a lump in my throat. The 1km main thoroughfare that stretches out from the city centre was a sheer pleasure to walk down and dream.

Laodicea is mentioned in the book of Revelation (1:11; 3:14-22), and from Paul’s epistle to the Colossians. “For I testify for him that he has a deep concern for you and for those who are in Laodicea and Hierapolis. Luke, the beloved physician, sends you his greetings, and also Demas. Greet the brethren who are in Laodicea and also Nympha and the church that is in her house. When this letter is read among you, have it also read in the church of the Laodiceans; and you, for your part read my letter that is coming from Laodicea”. Could this be the very church?

By evening dinner we were able to eat beside one of the finest sights in Turkey, an ancient mega city. It’s a powerful presence. Sixteen thousand square feet, it could accommodate thousands of dwellers, traders and spectators. Munching away on our chicken butties, we were truly struck by the size of the place. Columns, archways, streets, temples, theatres with massive blocks of stone that had to be hauled in from quarries 10 miles away. In the distance, the East Gate, stacked in an elliptical wall supported entirely by its arches. No buttressing, no concrete, just a precisely calculated balancing act. Totally in awe of this place.

Our Bumble parking spot at Laodicea GPS position N037.834829994, E029.104499582