Tatil bölgesi” (the holiday region), is like Turkey’s very own Route 66, a mythical road that defined summer for millions of tourists, including us. A meandering coast with scenic roads overlooking the Aegean Sea. Our 300 kilometre route (over five days), snakes its way from Brit packed beach of Marmaris to car fest at Altinkum. In autumn, the coast’s population starts to return to normal, the resorts start to wind down and life on Turkey reverts back to its roots.

Nearly all of our route we had great views of the Aegean, which might be the most sublime coastal drive in Turkey. Especially the remote Datça and Bozburun Peninsulas between Marmaris and Akyaka with rugged terrain, fishing villages and spectacular Aegean views. As we traverse cliffside expanses from Akyaka to Ören, we spied old boat yard bays and once again, mingled with the locals. This stretch of coast is completely different to the unpopulated coast of the Black Sea. We were quite impressed with the atmospheric and whitewashed town of Bodrum. The coastal villages of Bodrum Peninsula offered an element of modern build attracting some of the more well to do Turks.

The start…. We arrive on to the coast via the Sakar pass some 700 metres above the town of Akyaka. The cultivated land of Turkey that we have come to love and cherish sudden comes to an abrupt end. Replaced with pine trees and immense blue sea. After weeks of dust everything looks so colourful and bright. The smell of salty air and sand gets Mac n Tosh whimpering with excitement. We park up near the backwaters in low key resort of Akyaka. The ocean to our right and the walls of the coastal mangrove belt to our left.

The long awaited sea

Our Bumble parking spot at Akyaka GPS position N037.050696, E028.327852

Forgot to take a shot of Vin, but this is view from sleepy spot

The dudes take no persuading to run like the clappers on the beach. Bobbing in and out the water to cool down from over exertion. Its a lovely day and the temperatures are just nice around at around 30. We watch kingfishers skimming along the shoreline, snapping up tiny fish and eating them on the wing. All is going well until our play in the sea comes to an abrupt end. Mac nTosh have a scrap over each others ball and Mac gets stung in the foot.

Small day cruisers line the estuary. Some still offer trips along the backwaters, whilst others prepare their boats for winter. The agglomeration of gift shops that always accompanies a tourist spot has hit Akyaka like anywhere else. Thankfully, the shops are small and well kept and the streets clean. In the evening, we take a stroll for a bite to eat. We sort of hoped for a ‘tourist meal’ of pie and mash or burger and chips, but the desolate cafes lacked atmosphere and appeal. Feeling slightly deflated, we choose the busy local cafe offering the usual Turkish cuisine. A kofte kebab swilled down with a coke is enjoyable but not quite the evening meal we planned.

The following day we drive around the peninsula to Marmaris. We have no real desire to visit other than to kill our curiosity. Many moons ago, we went to Icemeler (next door to Marmaris) on a package tour and we wondered if things had changed. Oddly enough, it had changed so much we came away totally perplexed. Did we ever visit Icemeler or was it some other beach resort? Wall to wall with hotels, bars and cafes, it certainly had a lively atmosphere.

Later that day we head back to our spot at Akyaka and find ourselves stroll along the banks of the mangroves. This modest little village serves seafood sourced from boats berthed right across the river. Tiny, sweet oysters harvested just upriver, which are smoked in-house. I so wish Craig liked fish, we could just stop and enjoy dinner over a bottle of wine. Instead we just wander, sniff the air and watch the ducks waddle along the shoreline. By the time we are back in Vin I am famished.

Sunset

The following morning we headed over Ören. A village on the north coast of the Gulf of Gökova, which appears to be a bit run down and industrial until you reach the shoreline.

The beach is a mix of sand, gravel and pebbles and backed by handsome pine tufted cliffs. In clear weather you can spy the Datça peninsula but a constant sea fret blocks any views beyond the bay. A working harbour once stood at the east end of town, but what’s left of the jetty now serves a few fishing boats and the occasional wandering yacht.

Oren

Our Bumble parking spot at Ören GPS position N037.029948, E027.973291

View from Vin

Ören is home to about 500 people, a surprising number of whom crowd into a convivial tea shop & cafe each morning and evening. It’s a tiny spot with a garden chairs and counter stools, plus outdoor tables under which stray dogs hunt for crumbs. We start the day here with tea and conversations with locals, who strongly suggested we park here over night. However, local police are keen to keep the cafe area free from campers, so we move further down shore. The locals are defiant and we leave them debating their corner.

Like other outfits dotting the coast, Ören uses open fire to smoke local catch of the day. Come evening time the whole bay is like some chocking smog scene. Fires glare and fish is freshly cooked with just a sprinkling of salt.

In the morning, we continue our coastal drive towards Bodrum. The contrast between sun washed, slightly sophisticated coastal towns and the deeply rural, mountainous hinterland is stark. Sugar cubed houses verses heritage farms and olive oil producers. All of which gave rise to the coasts fame, when European expatriates outnumbered locals. At Camlica the coastal road splits without no signs for direction. We take a left and assume the coast road will be the best. Bad choice with over 20 kilometres of dirt track and pot holes.

At Bodrum, we searched high and low to find a decent parking spot but sadly, every inch is utilised. The narrow alleys and cobbled streets looked more Greek than Turkish and very pleasant. A pleasant surprise given its reputation and not at all like we imagined. But, with no parking we tootled over to Bodrum peninsula. Eventually, we pulled over at Turgutreis. It’s picturesque enough, with a modern marina, fresh painted wooden verandahs and balconies, but it’s obviously designed for tourists and has that cheerful soulless glow of civic improvement.

Our Bumble parking spot at Turgutreis GPS position N036.992458, E027.258048

Parking Spot on Beach

We fancy putting our feet up for a few days when we realise the date! Jeez, were has the time gone? We only only have two weeks left and then we need to be out of here. With time frame in mind we pick the key highlights for the remainder of our stay. I so wish we could extend our visa just by another 30 days but sadly, not an option. Especially given this is the perfect time for visiting the coast in a motorhome.

Morning arrives and time to get our skates on. We continue around the peninsular and then back to the burbs of Bodrum. Skimming passed the huge complexes attracting Decathalon, Marks and Spencers and many more high street brands. The word ‘outlet’ seems very popular too, a word not seen before in Turkey. Through Bodrum and over to Golu Lake by which time the fog had lifted. A quick morning break and then more driving until we reach Altinkum.

Our Bumble parking spot at Altinkum GPS position N037.356270, E027.288447

That afternoon, we find a perfect parking spot right on the beach. We enjoy chilled beach time followed by an evening of ‘tourist food’ dining in the resort. Craig finally managed to locate a burger and chips, which he devoured after 3 months of pide and kebabs. Bloody brilliant night topped off with Altinkum’s annual car fest.