Time to leave the peace and tranquility of Altinkum beach. The bracing exhausting anarchy of Turkish roads begins as soon as we head towards the centre of town. Cars veer out of side roads without stopping, lame dogs hop across our bows, dolmus appear from nowhere and blasts of the horn mingle with blasts from exhausts. Turkish driving is bonkers but yet in all of our time here we have not seen one accident. How is this possible with all the chaotic driving, a question we constantly ask ourselves.

Several kilometres from the centre sits the 2500 year old Temple of Apollo. Didyma or Didim was famous throughout the ancient world as the place where a colossal temple of Apollo stood. Here the oracle revealed the future. In its heyday, Didim was not a city, but a place of worship, connected with Miletus by Sacred Way. This road was used by the pilgrims who arrived in search of answers to nagging questions.

Our Bumble parking spot at Didim GPS position N037.384532, E027.258091

After a quick wander around the village and the Temple 15TL (£2) we set off to Miletus. We filled Vin with water from a rather elaborate water tap before we follow the sacred way for 17km. We pull in to what we thought was Miletus site car park. But on further inspection we discovered it was the poorly equipped museum. The site is another 1km down the road with large car park and entrance ticket of 12TL.

We read the information board to discover that in the ancient times this city was situated on a peninsula. Extending far into the waters of the Latmian Gulf. The most important strategical harbour was the so called Lions Bay, located in the northern part of the city. The isthmus leading to the bay was guarded by the statues of two lions. During our walk over sticky bob terrain we were joined by a local chap. He brought gifts of lavender flower and knowledge about the area including a great short cut over to the first lion. Although, the well weathered lion looks more like a disused block of stone than some fierce protector.

Founded by the Greeks the birthplace of mathematician Thales and the two famous philosophers, Anaxagoras and Anaximander. Miletus was also one of the oldest and the most important Greek cities of Ionia. Boasting not one, but four harbours. According to a legend, Miletus was founded by a hero named Miletos. There are three versions of this story regarding his origins and adventures. All these versions of the legend have two things in common: the father of Miletos was Apollo, and he fled to Asia Minor from King Minos.

The most dramatic structure in the site is the theatre with intact vaulted exit ways and tunnels. One of the pleasures of meandering round Miletus is the immense amount of carved and sculpted detail. In the Roman baths of Faustina there are stone slabs and statues amongst the rooms and halls. On the public fountain and square intricate detail lies like a cemetery of ruins.

Notice the tunnels on either side

So how old is Miletus? Well, some folk recon it dates back to 16th century BC. Whilst others say it is not currently possible to determine how long Miletus area has been inhabited by humans. Merely because any potential traces of the first settlements are located under thick layers of sediment deposits of the river Meander. The oldest traces, accessible to archaeologists, come from the Neolithic period (3500BC) when the area were located on several islands.

Roman bath Complex

As we drive through fluffy cotton fields, it’s easy to forget we are only a stones throw from the holiday resorts. Doves are cooing, tractors are chugging and goats grazing. Not a single tourist to be seen. We follow the signs to Priene but at the roundabout we are forced into the middle of the road. A swerve to avoid a scooter with two small children concertinaed in between their father and the handle bars. They all wave and dad even beeps at us before disappearing in a cloud of fumes from the back of a passing truck.

At the village of Güllübahce the centre parki is a hive of activity. Its like a summer fete and we watch all this from our front row motorhome seats. Parked right in the middle of the car park and surrounded by locals. Stalls selling fruit, homemade jams, honey, knitted dolls and wicker basket attract wandering crowds. The centre stage is is dominated by an impromptu group of young teenagers who grab the guitar and burst in to song. They aimlessly wander around the park and village square. Behind the park more stalls stacked with piles of sweets, biscuits and bread such as you might find in a church at festival.

When the activity dies down and the cars slowly dwindle, we move to the edge of the parking area. Right under the ancient viaduct, perfect ambient sound for drifting to sleep.

Our Bumble parking spot at Güllübahce GPS position N037.661267, E027.303484

Early morning and we take the high road to the ruins of the Ionian city of Priene. Mac n Tosh join us along the picturesque route situated on a slope of Mykale mountain (Samsung Dağı). Priene ruins are located on four terraces facing towards the valley of the river Meander. The steep intersecting streets lead up and down the slope giving you access to four terraces. In comparison to prior sites its all relatively compact and simple to navigate.

The remains of Priene are considered the most spectacular example of an almost entirely preserved ancient Greek city. At the same Priene is regarded as one of the most extensively studied ancient cities, next to Pompeii.

We started at the top terrace with the Temple and sanctuary of Athena as well as a theatre. Then on to the ancient shops and Temple of Zeus and finally the gym and stadium.