It’s around eight o’clock when we finish our breakfast. Wooden shutters are being taken down from shops and cafes. Shelves are dusted down and souvenirs are shuffled in to place. Mini Ephesus are unloaded from a consignment of cardboard boxes and handmade stickers are lovingly applied. But something looks different. It takes me a few minutes to realise everyone is wrapped up. Gone are the shorts and t-shirt and out come the thermals. During the night the temperature dropped dramatically, we are told winter has now officially arrived.
The first tour groups of the day pour from their coaches. They totter awkwardly on the cobblestones behind the upraised red flags of their guides. Slowly but surely make their way to the entrance but many are already lured away in to the souvenir stalls. Their guide frantically waves his flag, its like trying to round startled sheep, I don’t envy him. Finally, he ushers them through the entrance turnstile. Many of them now wear the mule like expressions of those condemned to another day of organised enlightenment.
We prepare ourselves for the ancient world of Ephesus.
Craigs love for the ancient world goes back to his childhood. It has very profound and significant origins…Gladiator! Who knew that watching Ben Hur, Spartacus and Gladiator on rinse and repeat for all those years would come in useful. Inspiring such an ardent and deep admiration for antiquity.
As we pass through the ticket gates (65TL) the tune to Gladiator kicked in, I started to hum. Up the tree lined avenue towards the Grand Theatre. For half an hour Craig took centre stage and turned in to Russell Crowe. Telling me about the gladiators and how they won massive fame among the lower classes. Their portraits graced the walls of many public places. Children played with gladiator action figures made of clay. They were also renowned for their ability to make Roman women swoon. Many women wore hairpins and other jewellery dipped in gladiator blood. Some even mixed gladiator sweat into facial creams, which they considered an aphrodisiac. At that point, I laugh, about turn and proceed down the street. (click to enlarge photo).
We couldn’t believe that the streets were still intact! It really is like an ancient high street. Window shopping for ruins, columns and stone, whilst dreaming of the gladiator parade. Grand marble streets lined with statues and fountains. Imagine them marching down the street. Crowds roaring and cheering them along. The excitement of the challenge!
We took our time walking from spot to spot around the city, as we snapped a million photos. The sun would occasionally peep through the clouds, taking the chill from the air. Standing high up on one of the hills next to the main street, it wasn’t hard to imagine its glory from millenniums past.
Top of the Street
The crowning glory of Ephesus is its famous library facade: the Library of Celsus.
Not many ancient ruins have preserved double story buildings. Just looking up at is impressive and the detail is stunning. Craig is impressed and a slight grin and nod means he approves! Like Russell Crow, he is not a man of many expressions but when the effort is made, there is no mistaking its meaning. The camera is out and he is taking shots, waiting a few minutes for the big tour group to pass.
What amazing moments happened there? What have these columns and walls witnessed over thousands of years? Wouldn’t it be ace to zip back in time just to get a sense of the atmosphere…
Some of the best preserved ruins and ancient sites we have seen while travelling have been in Turkey. In some cases, much better than the classic ancient sites in Italy or Greece. So arriving at Ephesus is sort of the pinnacle of ancient world.
A few shots from OFF the main street & Church of Mary…
Our walk back to Vin was full of what ifs! Will we ever forge our own mark in history? What will be left of our world, as we know it, in 2000 years? Will anyone will ever trace our footsteps? Will our blog leave them clues as to our world today? All these thoughts, but one thing for sure, we were content in the knowledge that we were following our dreams. Seeing places of historical and profound significance. Thank you Spartacus, Ben & Russell!
Overnight stays are not permitted at the site car park, so we headed a couple of kilometres down the road. Not an exciting sleepy spot but practical and nearby.
Yet another mesmerising place with architecture to die for
We also feel Ephesus is one of the best intact ruin sites and also agree that Turkey beats Greece hands down for interesting and well sign posted ruin sites (most of them anyway)!
Until visiting Turkey we had no idea it had all these beautiful ruins, so glad we visited.
Great place to visit but was suprised that the Austrian Archeology society did most of the work their the Turks never realised how important it was ,but now it’s a different matter they really treasure the past so much so no antiques can be exported or if your found taking antiquities imprisonment is the penalty no fines
If you look at all the sites they are funded and supported by European archeology. Its only recently supported by Turkey.
Love Ephesus but think some of the remote sites you have found look even more interesting!!
Each one of the sites seems to offer something unique Jenny.
I have been here many years ago thought it was spectacular
I’m so glad you posted about Ephesus! It is one location that’s at the top of my must-see list within the next few years. Your pictures are awesome!
Thanks Emily and definitely one to stay on the list
Ephesus was the first Roman ruin I visited that really floored me (and that was after visiting Rome). We just loved it, it was much more chilled out than many more popular ruins and we loved that we could even do a little ‘show’ on the stage of the amphitheatre (this was 10 yrs ago, maybe you can’t do that any more). Have you been to Libya? We were lucky enough to visit in 2010 – just before the Arab Spring – totally, mind blowingly amazing!!
We’ve not quite mustered the guts to venture in go Libya.
I was as blown away by Ephesus as you… walking those roads that have been trodden for so many centuries was beyond my comprehension! I was there in August though, and yes… it was very, very busy (and hot as sin!) Great post about such an inspiring and accent place! LOVE Turkey!
I can imagine the crowds in August, good job the cobbled streets are well made eh!
Oh, I loved Ephesus … I can’t believe it’s 23 years since I was there (as part of a massive day-trip group from a cruise ship – a schools’ cruise). Great to read about your experience there.
Oh, and there are people who don’t love Gladiator? Hard to believe.
Blinking ek, school cruise, lucky you!
Wow what a trip I would have never thought that Turkey offered so much.
Each day it continues to surprise us Paul