The enormity of the number of soldiers killed during WWI has left an indelible mark on the landscape. They call them the silent villages, the War Graves and battlefields that dominate the landscape along the Gallipoli peninsula. At almost every turn on a journey through peninsula there is a sign pointing to a cemetery, and it’s only when you see the rows and rows of headstones that you appreciate the scale of the slaughter that happened during WW1.
The Battle of Gallipoli took place from April 25, 1915 to January 9, 1916. Located between the Dardanelles and the Aegean Sea, it was the site of one of the bloodiest battles of World War I. It was seen as a major defeat to the Allies (who were trying to secure a sea route to Russia) and a defining moment for the Turks. It would be the spark to light the fire for Turkish independence years later lead by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, one of the commanders at Gallipoli. And for the the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC), the battle would mark a turning point in establishing each country’s national identity.
With the wealth of description posted at many of the 40-mile-long peninsula’s 80 or so cemeteries, lone graves and monuments, and with almost every village boasting heartbreaking, if makeshift, collections of war relics including uniforms, munitions, buckles, false teeth and much else, the Gallipoli experience is as richly informative as it is stirring.
Our tour took in just a few of the cemeteries and battlefields leaving a lasting memory of beautifully maintained park offering fitting memorials to the millions who died in The Great War.
Gallipoli Historical National Park
The Gallipoli peninsular is a historical national park covered in pine forests and fringed by idyllic beaches and coves. It is hard to imagine that this landscape was once a WW1 battlefield where Turks and Allied Forces fought.
The battlefields attract thousands of Turkish each year as well as Australian and New Zealand who view the place as a pilgrimage.
The Turkish discover several tons of war remains annually, which perhaps helps bring some context to the sheer scale of what you’re taking on with the battlefields of Gallipoli. While you can stumble across tiny, walled graveyards at will, planning the sights you want to see is essential. If you have a relative who died in battle check with the Commonwealth War Graves Commission (cwgc.org), which can supply details of where they are buried or commemorated.
Gallipoli Driving Overview
There are over 80 cemeteries and more being added all the time. Directions and signposts are extremely confusing. Over the years difference signage has been used but without taking down the old. In addition, you will see normal Turkish highway signs, national park signs and Commonwealth War Graves Commission signs. To add to even more confusion the Turkish troops used different names for the battlefields compared to Allied Forces.
Those with a motorhome and probably more time, can explore the national park in detail. You can do it in a day if you rush it. Two days allows you to visit the key places at a leisurely pace. If you want to see all 60+ cemeteries, find a particular grave or gain further insight into the conflict at Gallipoli then allow at least 3 days.
Note: Don’t park indiscriminately, the roads can be narrow and Turkish farm vehicles and coaches are large and unforgiving.
We arrived at Kilitbahir after taking the ferry Canakkale, so this was our starting point.
Day One
The southern section is far less visited and more spread out. The cemeteries are much larger and views of the Dardenelle straits help visualise the war ship passage. The castle tour and bunkers at Kilidulbahir are well restored.
Start at Kilitbahir then head south. The overall route is like a figure eight. Within about 5 minutes of setting off you will start to arrive at small monuments and cemeteries. Immediate you start to look to pin point the name on the map. Don’t bother, you are wasting your time because there are so many sites and the names are all confusing. The first large cemetery is Abide or Canakkale Sehirleri Anıtı, head for this and along the way stop at as many of the smaller cemeteries as you wish. From here just look for the next flag pole and drive to it. Every site has a decent car park except the French Cemetery were you park on some grass at the bottom of the hill and walk up. We have noted the GPS positions of some of the main cemeteries.
- Start Kilidulbahir GPS position N040.147727, E026.380432
- Abide N040.052330, E026.219633
- French N040.053992, E026.208329
- British N040.045410, E026.180791
- Lancashire N040.052988, E026.173798
- Twelve Tree Copse Cemetery N040.088140, E026.215536
- Nuri Yamut Monument N040.101524, E026.211253
- Finish Kabatepe GPS position N040.201100, E026.271932
Time Frame: Approximately 6 hours including lunch & coffee breaks
Kilitbahir Castle & Bunkers
Kilitbahir is a small town and fishing harbour in the southern part of Gallipoli Peninsula. Its importance for tourism is due to the presence of the vast Ottoman fortress and the existence of the ferry terminal that enables crossing the Dardanelles to the Asian shore. The castle is surrounded by an additional line of the outer fortifications with three bastions: Sarıkule, Mecidiye, and Namazgah. Namazgah redoubt is the complex of massive bunkers built in the 19th century, during the reign of Sultan Abdülaziz. The Museum of Naval Battles operates inside this bastion.
Havuzlar & Around
Canakkale Sehirleri Anıtı
Çanakkale Martyrs’ Memorial also known as the Abide (Monument), is a gigantic stone structure that commemorates all the Turkish soldiers who fought and died at Gallipoli.
French War Memorial & Cemetery
French troops, including a regiment of Africans, attacked Kumkale on the shore in March 1915 with complete success, then re-embarked and landed in support of their British comrades-in-arms at Cape Helles, where they were virtually wiped out. The rarely visited French cemetery has rows of metal crosses and five white concrete ossuaries each containing the bones of 3000 soldiers
Morto Bay & Cape Helles
While the Australians and New Zealanders held Anzac Cove, the British and French occupied Cape Helles on the southern tip of the peninsula. In May 1915 some of the Anzacs were redeployed here.
Yahya Çavuş Şehitliği
Remebers the Turkish officer who led the resistance to the Allied landing here, causing heavy casualties. ‘V’ Beach Cemetery
Cape Helles British Memorial
A commanding stone obelisk honouring the 20,000+ Britons and Australians who perished in this area and have no known graves. The initial Allied attack was two pronged, landing on ‘V’ Beach at the tip of the peninsula as well as Anzac Cove.
Lancashire Landing Cemetery
Our home county. Lancashire Landing Cemetery (1252 burials) stands on a cliff overlooking the beach on which the 1st Lancashire Fusiliers landed on 25 April. It was begun immediately after the landings and some further burials were moved into it after the armistice.
Nuri Yamut Monument
Turkish general, who became the 20th Commander of the Turkish Armed Forces on 5 June 1950. He was a career Artillery officer.
Kabatepe Harbour
Kabatepe or Gaba Tepeis a headland overlooking the northern Aegean Sea. During the First World War, the headland was the site of an Ottoman artillery battery which constantly harassed the ANZAC troops around ANZAC Cove to the north throughout the Gallipoli Campaign.
Day Two
The northern circuit of the Gallipoli attracts a lot of guided tours and coach parties. This section you see battlefields and cemeteries. Don’t miss Hill 60, one of the few places where the trenches have been preserved. If you are really interested, this should be combined with a visit to the simulation museum. With lots of information and displays on the various battles.
Start at Kabatepe and head to Gallipoli Simulation Centre, which is literally 5 minutes drive. From here follow the signs for the battlefields and the road just takes you along a one way system. You can’t miss any of points and if in doubt just look for a red flag. The majority of cemeteries have reasonable parking space except the cemeteries just after Lone Pine. Here there are no car parks because the road represents no mans land dividing grave sites between Turks and Australians. You eventually return to the Simulation Centre and from here we headed over to Eceabet or if you have time for more cemeteries head towards the beach and Anzac Cove.
- Start Kabatepe GPS position N040.201100, E026.271932
- Museum N040.207623, E026.280858
- Lone Pine N040.229934, E026.288705
- Jolly Johnstons N040.230406, E026.288509
- Quinns Post N040.239032, E026.292385
- New Zealand N40.250206, E026.308779
- Finish Eceabat GPS position N040.186455, E026.359146
Time Frame: Approximately 6 hours including lunch & coffee breaks
Simulation Centre
The centre cost $80 million dollars and has 11 gallery rooms, each equipped with advanced high-tech simulation equipment. The story of the 1915 Gallipoli naval and land campaigns is told from both Turkish and ANZAC points of view. The technology allows visitors to choose their presentation language and interact with the display.
Kanlisirt Kitabesi
Kanlısırt Kitabesi describes the battle of Lone Pine from the Turkish viewpoint
Lone Pine Cemetery
This cemetery derives its name from the single pine tree observed to be growing here when the Australian soldiers came up here from the landing on 25 April 1915. From that date through to August there was much heavy fighting at Lone Pine, the rear of the cemetery today marking where the Anzac lines were during those months and the wall and pylon of the Lone Pine Memorial to the Missing marking the region of the Turkish trenches.
Johnstons Jolly & Quinns Post
The area of the Anzac battlefield known as Johnston’s Jolly lies along the ridge just north of Lone Pine. It was named for the commander of the 2nd Australian Division Artillery, Brigadier-General George Johnston, and was reached by Australian soldiers on the morning of the landing of 25 April 1915. The field-guns of Johnston’s artillery were said by the troops, to ‘jolly up’ the Turkish battery opposite.
The Holding Line
For two months the Anzacs occupied this territory – holding the perimeter but unable to push further. They endured hunger, thirst, and sickness, as well as the psychological horrors of war.
57 Alay Cemetery
Cemetery and monument for the Ottoman 57th Regiment. This regiment was led by Mustafa Kemal (later Atatürk) and was responsible for halting the Anzac advance to the high ground of Chanuk Bair.
Chunuk Bair
In August 1915 the Anzacs summoned every last scrap of strength, and attempted a daring plan to take high points on Sari Bair Ridge. New Zealand forces briefly tasted triumph when they captured the summit of Chunuk Bair.
The young men from opposing sides befriending each other in between skirmishes. The Brits, Aussies and Turks would all play football together. Trade cigarettes. Share laughs. And then, when their commanders told them to, they would pick up their guns and kill each other.
Anzac Cove
On April 25 1915, 16,000 New Zealand and Australian men – ‘Anzacs’ – stormed this cove to fight Ottoman forces. Little went as planned – and the Anzacs were tested physically and mentally.
Plaque by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk
Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives… You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side here in this country of ours… You, the mothers who sent their sons from far away countries wipe away your tears; your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well.
Loved your commentary and photos of the Gallipoli peninsula.We too visited there in our MH. It beggars belief that the ANZACS were directed to disembark at the only hilly section along that shoreline. They were certainly sitting ducks for the Turks high up on the hill. Did you camp at the Kum hotel? It’s a great campsite there. Really enjoying your blog! I have a suggestion for Greece. Kato Gatzea near Volos. There is a tourist train that runs up in the hills to the town of Millies from Lehoia (check the spelling of those towns). Great views back to the ocean. Passengers help turn the engine around the turntable for the run back down.😊
Hi guys, your stalker Jake here! Sorry not been in contact for a while but lost my dear mum a few weeks back and it knocked me for six. Things slowly getting back to normal and so nice to have you guys to help cheer me up…well not with this post but all the other posts. You two are grand in my books and thanks for helping me through these dark days
Jake, so sorry to hear about your loss. Our thoughts are with you and your family during this time and if there is anything we can do, please let us know.
I would recommend that you listen to the song “And the band played Waltzing Matilda” by The Pogues. It goes with Gallipoli.
Never realised this Steve, will have a listen later
It’s crazy to think that someplace so beautiful once held so much violence and death. Loved hearing your take on this.
Its a beautiful place Kate and yes, difficult to imagine.
As an Australian, this is something high on my list to do. My Great Grandfather actually fought in Gallipoli and then later died in France in WWI. So it’s certainly very important to me.
It’s funny how different countries have to miss out on certain historical events in their education. I don’t remember learning much about turkish history when I was at school, so I guess it works both ways.
I can highly recommend a trip to Gallipoli Dean.
Love looking at all your photòs that you post. Theyre just brilliant. Thankyou.
Thanks Catherine
This is on my bucketlist, I missed it when I rode my motorbike through Turkey ! Now I have the motorhome it is one for next year. Cheers for the route.
Really worth a visit Will
Sailed past and was given a very moving commentary, so sad!xxx
I can imagine a commentary as you sail by to be very moving Viv
So beautifully written, it made me cry.
Thanks Joan
What an appropriate time of year to visit here. But how harrowing. We spent two days around Ypres last year and could only take so much.
I guess it made the journey even more poignant even though the sites themselves were very quiet.
Turkey or Finland Not sure which one to visit now after reading your trip , Having done turkey on my M/C 87-88 all so used the same ferry but in reverse to you, Thanks for such good read, could be a blog in the future for you to read from us, Deb did one for our friends when we did Sweeden So Safe travels Bryan
Difficult decision as both places have great things to offer! Look forward to reading your blog x
I am living in the UAE and visited Turkey last week and while researching more on Turkey came a cross your blog. I do agree your views about Turkey and it has become my favourite destination too. Please do come to Dubai when you have time I can show you around also try to visit Oman as I stayed for a decade there. I will visit Turkey again and again its such a wonderful place.
Would love to visit Dubai and Oman but not sure the motorhome is welcome?
Thank you so much for your blog post! My husband suggested we go to Turkey and I was a little leery because I wasn’t sure how it would be in motorhome. But your blog post makes me feel a lot more confident we are making the right call.
We are heading to Turkey Dec on package tour but interested in your thoughts… What were the few things you were most glad you brought, and what do you wish you left out? We always travel very light
The list is endless but glad we brought the camera, clothes for both hot and cold climate and pork sausages. Left out…swimwear.
Hello
Excellent tour of the war graves and battle areas.
Such a waste of young men from all over the world.
Have enjoyed your tour of Turkey and wish you safe passage.
Robert
Thank you Robert, enjoyed Turkey a d now looking forward to seeing friends and family.
For a turkish person who lives in Netherland and misses his country so much, it was very nice to see this post.
Glad you enjoyed Masood
I don’t know if I’ll get the opportunity in my life to visit Gallipoli, but I appreciated getting to see it through your eyes. I’d heard about it just a little after living in New Zealand (and trying once, admittedly unsuccessfully, to watch the Mel Gibson movie), but I am sad to say that I’m fairly ignorant about the battles.
One of my first motorhome trips overseas included a visit to the D-Day beaches in Normandy, and I can still recall my feelings. I can imagine the emotions for Australians and New Zealanders who pay a visit to this part of Turkey.
As a landscape architect I’ve been interested in the topics of memorial spaces and places for grieving – interesting the ties to “dark tourism.”
Thanks Matthew, the memorial sites always evoke deep and hidden feelings.
Great post. As a Kiwi it was a big goal of mine to get to Gallipoli and I managed that back in May, spending a day touring the battlefields with a private guide. It is hard to stand there among the cemeteries, on the beaches and on the ridges and fathom the disastrous events and huge loss of life that took place. I had been toying with the idea of returning for the ANZAC Day centenary in 2019; having experienced the commemoration site with no other people around, it would be quite the contrast to share it with 10,000 others!
I believe ANZAC day is a very moving experience but equally very rewarding to share time with so many nationals.
I did my degree in history (with a focus on European history no less) and don’t recall learning anything about Gallipoli. I remember hearing about the Mel Gibson movie and knew it was about a battle, but that’s it.
Speaking of dark tourism, I’ll be visiting Germany in December (Munich) and would very much like to take in a tour of the Dachau concentration camp. I imagine it would evoke many of the same emotions your visit to Gallipoli did and, in so doing, make my trip that much more memorable. Perhaps all our trips should include at least one “serious” experience to help ground us and remind us to appreciate our lives.
We’ve been to a few of the concentration camps Pauline, I struggle emotionally with the sheer volume of deaths and the way in which they tortured people.
Great post. I’ve heard of Gallipoli but as you said, as a Brit had only a fuzzy idea of what it was all about; so thanks for explaining it clearly. It’s so hard to imagine that many young men dying in such a small space of place and time, or soldiers being friends one minute and enemies the next.
It is hard to imagine people fighting and they playing the next. Must be like an emotional mind game.