After a night of storms and wild dogs fighting over scraps, we wake rather bogged eyed and cranky. It is 5.30 am and lorries hurtle down the pot holed road at speeds that beggar belief. The storm has washed away significant parts of the road and emergency trucks with tons of gravel arrive. We suspect a semi permanent repair until international funds support some sort of infrastructure project in the region. 

In a zombie state we shower, dress and prepare Vin for take off. We drive along the washed away road with caution. We hug the Kosovo border, towards Novi Pazar where we turn off. Sopocani is another monastery topping a carefully selected crag. We pull up and Craig goes white. “Holy shit, we drove off and left the choc behind”.  We looked at each other with disbelief.  We need the choc and the chances of finding a camper shop in this region is zero. Craig rolls out Eor and zooms on the motorbike all the way back and returns an hour later with the choc! 

Meanwhile, I take Mac n Tosh for a morning walk and ball game. I love letting them roam free but equally, if some wild dog came along and caused harm then I would never forgive myself. Serbia has a lot of wild and nasty dogs. Also, they are little buggers with their nose and sniffing until they find something of interest. And today was no exception. Mac stayed close by as always but Tosh was off chasing lizards.

Off he shot like bolt lightening around a wall and under a log. I call him like crazy and next minute he returns with a friggin huge snake. To say I shit myself is an under estimation.  I screamed at him to leave the snake, which is now curled in a ball and hissing like mad. With tail wagging he was clearly pleased with his catch and dropped it at my feet. I screamed, swooped him in my arms and shot off to the motorhome. I checked him over and over to make sure he hadn’t been bitten and I could see no visible scares. He seemed fine in himself just highly confused as to why I didn’t like his present! Jeez what a morning and its only 9 am!

Sopocani monastery straddles an outcrop of rock with the monks quarters that line the entrance way. It has been a working monastery for nearly 800 years and currently there are ten monks that live here.  Its the only monastery that charges a small entrance fee of €2, but it is one of the smallest and remotest monasteries in Serbia.

The young orthodox monk who took our entrance fee accompanied inside the church. He spoke good English and was happy to tell us about the church and answer all our questions (no photos inside). The Holy Trinity church was constructed with gold and silver and decorated with the finest fresco’s. I particular liked the reason for the circular chandelier: to hold as many candles as possible. Candles represent the light of angels. We cant help but marvel at the careful frescos of these monastery walls and the way the colours and the timber and stone harmonise so elegantly.  Externally the stone build blends with the landscape.

We made our way to the next town.  Like so many settlements in this region, Novi Pazar was fortified by the Turks as part of the Ottoman Empire. The general Isa-beg Isaković founded the town and today, it is home to the country’s Bosnian population. As we drive through it feels more Turkish than Serbian with tea houses, mosques and bazaars on every corner. We arrive during the lunch time rush and as a result,  every inch of parking space is taken up. Chaos is an under statement as drivers, passengers and vehicles manoeuvre in an impossibly small space. Once away from this bottleneck we crawl slowly round the town in search of a parking space. We drive around several times but when the rains arrive we give up and move on.

Soon Novi Pazar passes out of sight, and we pick our way down windy and precarious pot holed tracks. Through tiny settlements where it seems like we are the object of considerable curiosity. To be honest, we’ve been a curiosity throughout whole of Serbia due to being the only motorhome and non Serbian tourist since we arrived.  Even with horrendous roads the Serbs continue to risk life and death as they overtake on blind bends. Drive right up the rear of lorries and swoop out in the hope there is no oncoming traffic. 

By late afternoon, we arrive at Studenica. The region is draped in cloud as we climb the road up the mountain. We park up and within minutes our surroundings are out of sight and light rain patters on the roof. An early dinner and an early night.

Our Bumble wild camping spot Studenica N043.488431, E020.530670