Tschüssi Germany and in to the winding roads of the Austrian Tyrol, offering a real treat for all those who have been bitten by the motorhoming bug. We switch our GPS to ‘no tolls’ so as to avoid the need for an Austrian GoBox. Non toll roads are just as excellent..and free. The mountain and valley passes are traffic free with panoramic views of imposing peaks, extending green valleys, glistening lakes and traditional quaint villages.  The old Brenner mountain pass offers stunning views over Innsbruck. Its not long before we reach the border with Italy. We park up and snooze under a rather imposing fortress.

Our Bumble wild camping spot N046.776205, E011.628905 

The Alto Adige is the Italian name for the South Tyrol. Once part of Austria but became part of Italy after the First World War when the two countries fought a bleak battle across its mountain terrain. It looks like Austria but with just one major difference, huge pot holes.  The Italian roads are horrendous. But thankfully the deep mountain valleys, dense forests, rivers and lakes make the journey a pleasure. 

Italy, like the rest of Europe, grumbles a lot these days especially when it comes to questions about the taxman. I was chatting away to myself counting the number of tax returns I’ve completed for clients this year when I looked up.   The landscape was completely guarded by the jagged grey walls of the Dolomites, it was stunning. Suddenly, I was transported away from work and back in to relaxation mode. My thoughts slowly drifted back to the mountains, the rivers, the countryside.

Our route took us back in Austria for a quick refuel (cheaper in Austria than Italy) we then dashed along to sLOVEnia.  I could hardly contain my excitement, I was about to revisit one of my favourite places Triglavski National Park.  First the lake then the mountain pass then the valley, whey hey!

The Vršič Pass is the highest mountain pass in Slovenia.  It is one of the most spectacular and scenically rewarding trips in Europe. Constituting the stretch of road between Kranjska Gora and Trenta, a total of some 25km.   The pass includes 50 hairpin bends and is a mixture of tarmac and an old stone cobbles, which can get rather slippy.

After our stop at the most beautiful tricoloured Lake Jasna, we set off towards the pass. 

The road climbs steadily up past the 1000m point and at turn 8, the Russian Chapel.  Set back from the road, the tiny wood chapel was built between in 1917 to commemorate the deaths of more than 300 Russian prisoners of war.  Buried by an avalanche as they constructed the road.  Thousands more died from fatigue, starvation and torture during its construction.  A few of whom are buried in the small military cemetery just after turn 21.

There are plenty stopping points along the pass including views of the mountain range, the cyclops and the pagan girl.  The stone stacks to landmark the Russian lives lost in building the road are particular poignant. 

Beyond this point the road becomes ever more sinuous, passing several narrow points before arriving at peak at 1611m. The views from here are stunning and well worth a walk to stretch your legs and look down the other side of the mountain.  The descent from peak to the Trenta Valley is every bit as dramatic as the ascent.  With plenty minor roadworks, exposed ledges and crumbling corners with sheer drops to get your butt cheeks twitching. 

Once at Bovec we headed to the aire but at €20 per night, which has tripled in price since 2015 we gave it a miss. Instead we tootled over to Kamp Polovnik with all the luxury of a campsite and a bargain at €17 with ASCI card.

Our Bumble paid campsite N046.335870, E013.557514  

Two days at Bovec is just what the doctor ordered to relax. It really is a magical place and I just love the fact you are surrounded by mountains in every direction.  We wandered into the village centre, played ball with Mac n Tosh, went for endless walks and zipped over to the Soca river.

Soca has to be one of the most picturesque rivers in Europe. It is known for its gorges and its amazing emerald green colour, which is why it was nicknamed ‘the emerald beauty’. So pristine that Disney filmed the fantasy adventure film Prince Caspian by its banks. It is chillingly cold, crystal-clear, but it is fantastic for rafting, kayaking, and canoeing if you can stomach the cold. 

The most spectacular spot of the Soca river is the Great Gorge located next to the road from Bovec to Trenta just before the Soca village. It’s 750 meters long, 15 meters deep and at its narrowest section only two meters wide. The overhanging rock walls, its narrowness, and the beautiful green waters make it look so pretty.

Tomorrow we leave nature’s paradise and commence the final leg of our fast track trip to our bumbling starting point…Croatia!!!