Craig checking the water level

Normally, our motorhome summers are filled with endless days of sunshine, pining for a cool ocean breeze. Rarely do I count the days of rain but only to feel pleased we escaped the Manchester drizzle, but not this year. For the last few weeks, it felt like we are living in the middle of monsoon. Each time I log on to facebook, I turn green with envy. Seeing my family and friends back home enjoying a rare British summer is wonderful, but I can’t help but feel rather jealous. This morning is no exception. The sky remains a depthless grey. Dull and wet, another day without shadows.

We take a west turn out of the town and within 50 feet we see the Bosnian border post, right at the base of Drini river.  Soldiers armed with rifles pace up and down the bridge. We take a left turn and follow the river.  By now, the heavy rains have arrived and its lashing it down but the area is unusually captivating.  Horses graze, pups play and dogs chase and fight amongst the piles of rubbish. We spot a little patch of grass with gravestones, it is a small cemetery, neatly walled and fenced. As we continue we spot more patch of grass and more gravestones.  The whole area is dotted with random headstones.

The bank on which we are follow will probably submerge in a few hours if the the rains continue to swell the river. A brief stop where the Vrelo river joins the Drini river shows the extent of the rains. We order a cup of coffee from a roadside cafe. A man with wavy grey hair and flip flops makes the coffee before darting off in his Yugo with a parcel. He leaves us alone in his cafe and returns just in time to be paid.

Rising water levels

Given the likelihood of flood, we decide to head for high ground, Tara Mountain. As we wind inland the road to higher ground is half blocked off with tape. We pull over to see if we can make sense of the hand made sign but its all in cryllic. Fortunately, a passing local stops and asks if we need help. He speaks good English and tells us the road is open just take our time with all the excess water, mud slides and rocks falls.  We climb high above the the clouds with stunning views of the river and over to Bosnia.  

The roman road is narrow at certain points with tight bends, but not hair raising. The pelting rain adds to the atmosphere as we drive up Tara mountain to the national park. We continue to climb steeply, through forested slopes and past tumbling waterfalls.  Derelict outposts and look out stations line the path. The park is a dense forest with birch, pine, juniper and endemic Serbian spruce.  It is a haven for brown bears, wild cats, golden eagles and wolves. 

Just touching Bosnia

Eventually, we wind down to the lake dam and find a good place to park up for the night. Located at the peak of the mountain with surrounding views of the finger shaped lakes. Down the valley,  spectacular views with attractive farm houses, some stone, some tile and some wood spread along the hill, between spurs of rock running down to the lakes far below.  

Tonights view

Within half an hour of arriving our view is gone, cloud descends and the rain returns. Two fishermen take shelter under a makeshift awning and light a fire to keep the cold at bay. As night falls, spotlights across the valley shine, a way of keeping the bears away from local homes. The temperature falls and once more, we turn on the heating and snuggle down with Mac n Tosh.

Our Bumble wild camping spot Tara NP N043.865275, E019.406011

A cool morning as we slide out of our bed and glance out of the window. Thankfully, we didn’t have any unwanted visitors like bears or wolves in the middle of the night. Instead just barking dogs and croaking frogs. The heavy rain has backed down and now we just sit in the cloud with a fine drizzle.  In the middle of the lake, a Serbian flag flaps in the wind. As we look around we spot the flag at various points, as if to mark their territory. 

The Tara mountain looks like an inland headland surrounded by the river Drini.  Beyond the Drini the land and hills stretches away into Bosnia.  While Macedonia separated peacefully from Yugoslavia in 1991, the Bosnian War and the infamous Siege of Sarajevo were the tragic result of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s declaration of independence in 1992. Serbia is still not best friends with its neighbours.

After breakfast, the drizzle stops and scattered blue skies bring a tinge of colour to the lakes. We continue our drive around the lakes along a bumpy road certainly that is not well travelled. At one moment we are on the flat level with the lake, at another cutting down a ravine or passing a small hill.  One thing that is constant are the beautiful meadows and dense spruce. 

Our 5 kilometre journey takes a couple of hours as we slowly meander the gravel roads. Navigating landslides and large boulders in the middle of the road took time. At moments like this, when you are surrounded by steep slopes covered in huge trees becomes quite frightening. Our large motorhome all of sudden seem small and pathetically vulnerable.

By mid afternoon, we reach safe ground.  We approach Šargan Vitasi station and the view of decommissioned steam locomotives and rusty carriages catches our attention. The Sargan eight railway must be close by, we asked the station master who directs us 8 miles down the hill.  An adventure that will hold until tomorrow. An early dinner and early night

Our Bumble wild camping spot Sargan N043.830168, E019.541225