Come Monday morning, we were ready to leave the crowds of Montalto Marina. Its been good to spend time in an Italian resort but we now seek a bit of solitude. With weekend out the way, our opportunity to find a quiet place to swim with the dogs should increase. Time to find a beach or village that is not on the tourist trail.
We head down the coast and spot a GPL station, so pull over for a top up. Since we’ve had the new gas valve fitted (Sweden) the GPL consumption has been brilliant. It wasn’t bad before but now it just seems to last for ever. I bet its now only costing around €0.50 per day to run fridge, freezer, hob, grill, BBQ and hot water.
Not far and and we pull in at the town of Tarquinia. Small resort with a few little restaurants and cafes in the middle of town. At the beach front the obligatory private beaches with exclusive offerings! We head to the far end, the communal beach which has a sign ‘dog friendly beach’. Yeah! Its quiet, so we park up and head out of a day on the beach. Surfing and playing ball. The dudes are in heaven.
Our Bumble wild motorhome sleep spot at Tarquinia GPS position: for N043.403237, E010.864631
In the evening, we are blessed with great sunset looking out to the island of Elba. We sit sipping a beer beside the beach lilies…no idea what they are called?
After few days on the beach at Tarquinia and its starting to fill up. Seems like Mon – Wed is fine but then slowly but surely the crowds start to build for the weekend. We move on to the next place and hope to avoid the crowds.
Through a couple of towns and the main road started heading in land. Not what we want. Craig had a bit of shuffle and turned Vin back round. Then he took a bit of a dirt track road heading back to the coast. Soon the road leads to a decent tarmac amid a canopy of pine forests. Not a soul around. To our right rows of pine trees then rocks and the ocean.
To our left fields upon fields of cindered grass. Craig wasn’t content and want to be right on the beach, so he followed his instinct. Soon we arrived at a massive fossil fuel station called “Alessandro Volta”. The biggest power station in Italy.
Down the side of the ugly power station a dirt track leading to the shore line. Vin slowly wobbles his way to the ocean and takes a right. We bumble down the track until the power station is out of sight. We spot half a dozen little pockets of coves and parking spot. Excellent! We park up Vin and have a walk to see what suits us best.
We stop on a little headland with beautiful sea views. Not long and we set up our stall, pull out the awning, chairs and tables. Perfect. There is little or no sand and its pretty rocky but pick your patch and its fine. The rock boulders create a natural mini harbour wall, so our ‘private’ beach is shallow and calm. Next the fun bit. We open the motorhome doors and out shoot the boys. Straight in to the sea. They run around like crazy, whimpering in pure delight. Its great to watch.
Our Bumble wild motorhome sleep spot near Scalgia GPS position: N042.141864, E011.743663
Later that day we are joined by three other motorhomes. Its great, we all say hello and attempt to have a bit of a conversation. An English van in a remote part of Italy provides fascination. Why here? How did you find it? etc etc.
A lovely 3 days by the sea with the sound of the ocean lapping by our door. It was tranquil and calm especially after the manic affair at Montalto Marina. Craig cleaned the solar panels and I did the washing.
Mac n Tosh played in the sea with their ball and surfing. Tosh took to crabbing with his dad. The only problem he acquired a taste for soft shell crab and got obsessed with the little tasty morsels. Every time we let him off the lead he would shoot to the rocks, disappear for 5 and then return with a gob full of crab. Poor Mac hadn’t got a clue what to do and made do with licking Tosh’s lips in the hope of a scrap or two.
Our neighbour, a keen fisherman spent his days and nights, casting his rod, spear fishing, crabbing etc. 100% effort but 0% return, poor thing. All made worse by Tosh return with multiple gob full of crab for zero effort.
Saving the best until last…the best sunset ever. No words to describe it only a big, fat WOW.
If you too are in search of an isolated beach cove then here are our 5 top tips to help you find it.
1. Check out the map
Instead of creating an itinerary based on the next town or city that will clearly attract crowds and attention, seek out the destinations that seem to have been missed.
2. Ditch the GPS
When in wander mode ditch the GPS or switch it to map only mode. Look for beach roads outside of towns. Dead ends can sometimes mean little hidden beach coves. See if there’s a route that takes you along a quiet shore or coast pine forests. Give yourself permission to wander intentionally of course.
3. Talk to Locals
Best is to ask the locals. There is a good chance they know of a hidden gem. Italians love crowds, so places of solitude are not always the best places in their view but good chance they will know what you want. If not, ask on line and fellow travellers will tell you where to go or recommend a place
4. Lack of Populous
No houses or non-residential areas are a good indicator it could be quiet.
5. Be open to a journey
Getting lost isn’t about being reckless or unsafe; it’s about choosing a path that hasn’t lost its allure. The key is to open yourself up to the possibility and intention of doing things differently. This is about succumbing to the true idea of travel…to explore
Hi , Love following you, can I just check that the GPS co-ordinates for Tarquinia (N043.403237, E010.864631) are correct as it seems to put you inland at Volterra about 2.5 hrs from Tarquinia.
many thanks for all the hard work that you put into your blogs.
Nice to catch up with you and glad the Dudes are in their eliminate again ,loving crab they will want caviar next it’s nice to know they are getting spoiled ,I know now what to get them for xmas ,Luv Pops xxx
You would have loved crabbing with them.
What a sunset! Dave and I can’t wait to experience one like that, I want to wander off like you two do, I hope I can be brave enough, will soon be in a position to try we hop
How’s that song go? Red sails in the Sunset ,All Day they’ve been Blue ,
We have a sunset of the liquid variant here in Cornwall tonight. It is very wet and miserable and Sicily 3 months ago seems an age away. Keep the pix coming they are cheering us up before we set off again xx
We often think of our time in Sicily, it is a rather special place.
I don,t reply very often but we read all your blogs. We love the way you write and bring your journey to life. We are on step one of our first Motorhome potential purchase. We have sold our house and are downsizing to release some money. Your photos are also a great inspiration especially the last perfect sunset.
We currently have our 3rd canal boat and have completed some of the canal Network in the UK. Looking to travel further afield with our Welsh sheepdog.
Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. Its always nice to hear from people who follow us, if nothing else it confirms someone is reading ❤️
Step 1 but a massive step and hopefully the motorhome will bring you as much joy as the canal boat. Funnily enough, I am just reading the ‘voyages of princess matilda’ by shane spall. They had a canal boat and love their travel tales.
WOOOOOW that is the most incredible sunset I’ve ever seen – how luck you are to have experienced it in person
I know, feel incredibly lucky
Amazing 😍 beautiful pics. What a beautiful moment to experience. Really looks fantastic 💞xx
Never thought to video it then we could press replay
Jeeeepers! That is stunning! Wow! Simply wow!
Come and join us Wendy
Italy seriously knows how to do sunsets. Kx
I know, feel so lucky to be here
Good morning Joanne, very wet and grey here this morning. Looks like it’s set in for the day too. Enjoy your day my friend. Not been on with you much lately just out of hospital, need to catchup now. Xxx 😘😘💖
Lovely to hear from you Audrey and glad you are on the mend. Sent you a sep email ❤️
One of the sunsets looks like a hot dog with tomato ketchup and mustard…Mac n Tosh
Hahaha Paul, you had a few too many scoops
I love following your trip, you make us so jealous but in a nice way.
Stunning Joanne xxx hope you and Craig are having a fabulous time xxx
We are fab Hazel. Looks like you enjoyed America x
Those are amazing photos! They could be mistaken for paintings.
Thank you so much Anne
What lovely weather and a lovely view to complete some cleaning tasks in 👍
True Gary
Hard at it 😜
I’d sit on the roof An watch the sun go down
Am off to Sardinia in sept without my van for a weeks rave with the Acid Punks 😜
You never fail to make me smile London. Never been to Sardina let us know what it is like
When are you home, we need a night out on the tiles Joanne.
Btw, So tempted to nick that and have it put on a canvas. Awesome xx
Should be back fow winter then we can crack on with our project. More prosecco at the wine bar?
Your journey keeps us going, so boring here.Beautiful pics, it’s bloody chucking it down here x
Hey Lynne, your life boring I doubt it. You are always out and about
Mornin’. Well it’s bouncing down here in not so sunny Scorton!!! Good job skins waterproof. Have a great day.
And sunproof!
Best time of the day. With weather like that quiet contemplation and first coffee of the day before any one else has appeared. Inspiring.
I thought you’d like the sunrise my friend.
Beautiful, wish I was there instead of the UK, not long though & we’ll be on the road like you x
Excellent Kerry…look forward to catching up with you.