We eat breakfast and sip coffee in the car park of Studenica before we enter Serbia’s most beautiful monastery. We enter via the gate in to the circular fortified complex. In the centre of the monastery are three churches and the base of several building ruins. To our right, the monks quarters and communal dining room.  The thing that strikes us about Serbia monks they all have long hair and look relatively young. 

The oldest and most important is the Church of the Virgin Mary.  The church is clad in white marble and a unique feature within Serbia.  The elaborately sculpted mythical beasts and floral motifs adorning the stone door and window frames. Like most monasteries, it was severely damaged when the Turks invaded but recent and ongoing restoration is slowly bringing the glory back to the site.  

The small Kings church is open.  A local elder brings bread and during a ten minute ceremony the priest gives his blessing. After prayers and chants, the priest surrounds the elder in inscence then together they break the bread.  

By lunchtime we have reached Maglic Fortress and are able to eat beside one of the most imposing sights in Serbia.

An hour later and we’ve climbed the hill and we’re at the gates of Maglic, the best preserved hilltop fortresses in Serbia. Its seven towers, turrets and battlements stand proud protecting the Ibar valley pass.  Inside the ruins of St George church and palace can be seen amongst the overgrown weeds. We climb 7ft walls for stunning views for miles around. It may lack the grandness of Novi Sad fort, but it has a more subtle appeal.  The quiet dignity of a fortress that has survived nearly a 700 years of conflict. 

Entrance to Maglic is free and hardly anyone ever climbs the hill.  To access you walk off the main road, down tarmac path passed two derelict buildings. You cross the river via the rope bridge, which is in desperate need of repair and certainly not for the faint hearted. The fist part of the climb is quite rough but the last half is crazy paved. Its not a difficult climb but equally, its not straight forward.

Onwards and south bound to our final place in Serbia, Nis.  As if reflecting the change of direction the landscape changes too. We rattle on, twisting and turning until the road opens up and the motorway signs appear.  We go for it and tackle it head on and Vin enjoys a bit of open throttle.  For the first time since arriving in Serbia we are descending rather than climbing, steadily, if not spectacularly, following the thin dusty plume of the vehicles ahead. The road is far from smooth and offers little comfort given its a paid toll road albeit very reasonable. Alongside us runs the unpaid toll road, quiet and as smooth as a babies bottom.

After a couple of hours we arrived in time for sunset. A local, friendly fuel attendant tells us there is a good parking spot at the side of ‘My Hotel’. We find it on the map and head over, it superb. Free parking between the hotel and river and only 1 kilometre along the promenade to the centre. We enjoy our last night in Serbia with a glass of wine and some local, authentic music from band in a nearby bar.

Our Bumble wild camping spot Nis N043.325532, E021.902304