En-route to the Greek border we stop for breakfast at Sandanski, our final stop in Bulgaria.  A small town were residents make much of the possibility that Spartacus, the Thracian slave famed for leading a slave revolt against the Roman Empire, was born in the town. Sadly the youths of today don’t quite take the same pride and much prefer Spartacus covered in graffiti. 

Craig is a big fan of Spartacus but the big question…does he look like Kirk Douglas?  

Refreshed and ready for some Greek sunshine we head to the border were once again, we sit for half a day in long traffic queues.  Sigh, sigh and god save the fan.  I hug the honeywell, Tosh takes over driving duties, Mac flops in a heap and Craig chomps on a ham butty (click on photo to enlarge)  

To get to the idyllic Greek beaches we undergo tighter security checks than anywhere else on the journey. Police  perform baggage and permit checks, which dot the road for several miles towards the crossing. For what ever reason are not classed as high risk and avoid the intimidating random search. We entertain ourselves until we flash our passports at border control and wizzed through. On one hand we were pleased with the hand wave to move along but after queuing for hours we did feel a little cheated. They could have at least checked our photo’s!I Unlike the Bulgarian and Romanian cars who were stopped, quizzed, searched and interrogated.  

With me in the driving seat…we sailed through border control.

Through border control and finally on our way to Craig’s favourite country in Europe, Greece.  He just loves it without any question.  Singing our little hearts out to Dire Straits and in high spirits as we bumble on down to the coast. The sun is shining and life feels good. 

Then without any warning the weather changes. In the distance we spot a mini tornado and within minutes we are on the edge of the storm. Vin the motorhome rocks from side to side and branches, debris and loose objects fly past us.  Its all pretty scary stuff but we have no option to turn off and so we drive along with extreme caution. Visibility reduces to only a few feet as all the dust from surrounding farmlands is swept up in to the air. 

We quickly close the windows as we cough our way along in its wake.  Our road winds down the hillside and the road slips out of sight below. We climb steadily upwards through scrubby woodland with big views of the plains and lakeland unrolling below. Following Copilot towards a large carpark at the side of the lakeland.

We arrive at Agios Vasileios, in whose abandoned marina park we park up, sit down at a table set with coffee and crisp, and wait for the storm to pass.

Our Bumble wild camping spot Agios Vasileios N040.667712, E023.119238

With fresh water, clean ground and no neighbours we stayed a couple of days and scrubbed the motorhome inside and out. From washing, solar panels, grey waste and everything else that could be cleaned. The dust from the storm had certainly left its mark. 

With Vin all clean and tidy, we head off to Thessaloniki to see the Zampetas Brothers.  A small family run business that services caravans and motorhomes.  We settle in towards the rear of their site where they offer space for half a dozen motorhomes with free services and wifi.  We stayed here a few years ago and the two brothers Antonis and Alexander are really helpful and friendly. 

This year, the two sons are celebrating 50 year in business. Antonis told us the story of how the business was establish and it is really quite humble…his father founded the business after he lost his home in a bad storm.  With no where to live he made his way to Germany and bought a caravan.  He returned to Greece and soon realised the caravan was a good temporary solution for many other people who lost their homes.  Zampetas was established on the principle to help other people find temporary accommodation.  Don’t you just love success stories like this. 

Zampetas camper stop

Our Bumble free camping spot Thessaloniki N040.502669, E022.971192

Welcome Linguine

Our main priority was to locate a replacement mosquito door/screen. Antonis was superb in contacting Hymer but at €650 for a replacement that could take weeks, we opted for the second option at a fraction of the cost €30.  A leatherette fly screen, which we have aptly named Linguine.  Also on the shopping list, a new water filter for our spares box and a new toilet.  Our toilet is working OK but we think it may only be a matter of time before it breaks.  One of the internal leavers has snapped and although we can replace some of the mechanism it feels much more economical to purchase a brand new unit including cassette, toilet seat, blue loo (luxury) and bathroom cleaner for just over €100.  

Street Art

The other main reason for visiting Thessaloniki is to arrange to have our green card for Turkey to be delivered to the local DHL office.  Our insurance policy ran out a few weeks ago, so we arranged a new green card upon renewal of our policy.  The good thing with our insurance is they completely cover you for entry in to Turkey (and many other countries) at no extra cost.  A big thumbs up for us along with unlimited travel duration.  

The DHL express offer a 24 hours service from UK to Greece for £26.95.  A tad expensive but for guaranteed delivery with 24 hours we personally felt it was worth it.  Plus the staff were super friendly. In between a bit of sightseeing, Craig purchased a new polariser for his Canon EOS 5.  His last one gave up the goose but in fairness, it was over 30 years old. 

As usual we got caught in the rain but this time it was one hell of a storm. The sudden downpour caused flash floods across the whole city with cars and people stranded on ever turn. Click here for msn footage.  We managed to slowly make our way home like two drowned rats through the river streams. 

Normally we would take cover but the storm was in for a duration and it wasn’t right to leave Mac n Tosh alone with roaring thunder.  We arrive home and guess what…we’ve only left all the skylights open and the motorhome is soaked.  The bed, lounge area, shower, bathroom.  Bloody rain but at least we are all safe and well!

While the rest of Greece has been hit hard by the debt crisis, Thessaloniki is enjoying a quiet renaissance. We can certainly see the difference in just two years.  To the rear of the Zempetas is the Dialysis Centre and as I nip in for my quarterly B12 injection (free of charge) the onsite engineer sits in the garden and chats about the local economy. 

Stavros is a 30 something chap with a passion for his country.  His wages are minimal at €500 per month but he has high hopes.  This is mostly down to the maverick mayor, Yiannis Boutaris, a winemaker and recovering alcoholic with seven tattoos and a fondness for trainers. Known as Kir-Yianni  the 72-year-old Boutaris is more radical than most politicians half his age. His appeal is that he’s not politically correct.  He’s a businessman, he’s not corrupt and he supports the arts and entrepreneurs. Confidence in the local economy remain high but they are not echo’d across the country as the majority of the government are seen as corrupt and bent.  

With repairs done, spares stocked and jabs in check it time to hit the road…tomorrow we head for Halkidiki….woo woo

Crypt artefact