We roll off the ferry on to the island of Pag. Its only a short 15 minute crossing to the thin, long island.  The first thing that struck us about Pag was the barren landscape. All light and bright rocks completely void of trees or vegetation. We soon learnt that Pag was stripped of woodland by those nifty Venetians, who once ruled on the island.  They used its wood to build much of the floating city we adore today. The absence of forests, and the patchy low shrubs hardened by stiff salt air, created an unearthly feel.  Almost a sense that this unashamedly unique part of the world is perhaps not of this world at all.

Lesley and Paul recommended a small agitourism site run by a chap named Elvis. We key in the coordinates and set off. About 20 minutes later we did a quick handbrake turn down an unmarked  and rather bumpy road. After a brief battle with the hedgerow growth, we were presented with a quaint olive tree patch right on the coast.  Sparkling turquoise waters, secluded bay, free from crowds, paradise. Needless to stay, our quick one night stay turned in to a four day bliss. 

Skovrdara site is built on terraced olive garden. Some of the patches are level whilst others are more suitable to tents and small caravans. Cost per night 50kn for motorhome and 20 pp, which equates to around about £10. There is no electric hook up but newly built shower block and wifi.

Our Bumble paid camping spot N044.628199, E014.792661

On the north of the island, Lun is one of a handful of beach coves and fishing villages in the region. The Olive gardens on the Lun estate serve as a space for local food producer to bring out their best olive oil and local produce. The gardens are a collection of olive allotments each with their own trees and boundary stone walls. You can buy from the producers at the Sunday market or stop at their roadside stall. Sample olive oil from 600 year old trees, sit at communal make shift tables and chairs and indulge on artisan bread and local cheese.  

After a toot around the gardens we zipped to the very top of Pag island. The five minute trip took a tad longer than expected. We drove passed Lun bay at the same time a load of German geriatrics stepped of a day boat. One by one they just walked straight in to the road. Like little lemmings with no concept they were standing in the middle of the road and about to be squashed by tipper truck. Oblivious to their surrounds, gazing up at the sky and spinning in circles. Jeez now we had a few dozen Germans looking in the sky (at nothing) and swirling around, as if they weren’t dizzy enough. A swift honk of truck horn brought the sun swept group back to earth and road block slowly cleared.

Driving south from Lun, our first random stop had us dangling our feet and watching sea cucumbers. Potočnica is a quiet series of bumpy little streets snaking along the rocky coast where terraced villas and resorts extend to private beaches. Without a map or clue of where to go, we followed the dirt track road down the hill to a dead end bay. We sat on the pier, dangling our legs before we took one of the many little trails back to Elvis’s pad.

Cloud formation over the mountains

Pag has few secrets, having long drawn visitors to its white coves and turquoise waters. One place that has certainly hit the radar is Novalja, located half way along Pag on the west side. It is the raving capital of Croatia but by day it really is a pleasant resort. Long sunny days are spent cruising the beach front, keeping watch for dolphins or paddle boarding, if you’ve managed to sober up from last night. Other than all the tourists looking rather young and healthy you would have no idea it is a ravers paradise. We wander around the streets with waiters tossing pancakes and cafes flipping burgers. Cocktails served by the litre seem to be on every menu board. Jeez, I get hiccups just thinking about such a quantity. We just love the town signs…keep clothes on!

After several days in paradise with Elvis, it was time to head south of the island. We ventured to towards Pag town in search of sheep’s cheese, lace and wine.  Apparently a bit of an odd pursuit on the island best known for partying and salt. But the island’s reputation for quality local produce has our taste buds bursting.

Our next stop the camping village of Simuni. We were also in time with the ASCI card and that’s a bonus.  We found our patch amid the vast site, parked up and enjoyed two days of camper life. Doing very little other than beach parties with the dudes, cocktails at sunset and pizza.

Our Bumble paid camping spot N044.463781, E014.967790

Eor zipped us over to Pag Town but to be honest, it was a bit of a let down. I think it because the guide book beefed it up so much that we were expecting much more. Plus we personally found the top half of Pag island much prettier and more interesting.  But we did find cheese, lace and wine, so not that bad, I guess!