Time to say cheerio to Ivan, cough up €30 (3 days) and head to 100km to our next stopping point, Rila Monastery. But not before filling up with fuel, shopping at Lidl and buying a weekly vignette for 15 Lev. Normally, we don’t use motorways but we thought it might be a wise move given some of the road conditions we encountered on our last visit.

Despite our relatively late afternoon arrival, the monastery car park was not nearly as crowded as we feared. Having said that, the car park was not very big and the remaining parking bays were certainly not ideal for a motorhome. We pulled in to one of the free spaces just to check out map when a dodgy looking parking attendant walked over. Craig explained we were moving on but he didn’t care, the grumpy guy just wanted €10. We pulled away and drove up the side of the monastery to find more parking spaces to the rear.  Trinket stall holders spotted our motorhome and shuffled over to waving religious icons for sale. Vin the motorhome took great fear in being turned in to a holy shrine and before we knew it we were off. Heading down a small road and further in to the Rila Monastery forest. 

We find a perfect open space besides the river.  It’s late afternoon and the storm clouds are slowly  building once more. We check the area is clear of wild dogs and summons a ball game between Mac and Tosh. Despite a hard fought round of 50+ chuck and fetch, the swift legs of Tosh pip the fluffy legs of Mac.  But both are rewarded equally with dish of sardines, biscuits, gravy bones and lashings of fresh water. 

Overnight parking bay

Around 8pm we hear a faint tap at the door.  A really pleasant and very apologetic forest ranger informs us we can’t camp here overnight. We ask him if it is possible to stay anywhere nearby for just the night and he informs us to head over the road to a small lay-by. We thank him, pack up and move on to spend a wonderful evening in the quiet but rather rainy Rila mountains. 

Our Bumble wild camping spot Rila N042.139431, E023.348804

The next day we wake rather clammy.  The thermometer has fallen to a mere 32 degrees, but the humidity has risen. There was quite a storm across the mountains last night and a combination of heat and moisture makes the air thick and sticky. I barely have time to brush my hair and Craig is firing Vin ready for off.

He spotted a camping sign, so we bumble a few kilometres down the road to a camp Bor. A wonderful, charming little campsite located right next to the river. The pitches are more suited to tents rather than large motorhomes.  But, the warm welcome from the old chap in a bandana, who must be at least 90 years young is worth it. All inclusive rate of 30 Lev per night, which is not bad given the location but a bit pricy given the facilities.

Our Bumble paid camping spot Rila N042.140598, E023.352523

A quick bite to eat and then we were off, a day of trekking the mountains and finding the caves of St Ivan.

Wobbly bridge is an under estimation

We cross the river, take a right and follow the road for a few kilometres before we turn off and ventured in to the forest.  Mac n Tosh were let loose and boy did they enjoy. They were like little wind up toys on overwind, darting here and there sniffing and digging in the forest floor. We slowly but surely started our ascent up the mountain. We climb over a spur and begin moving through thick, dense forest. The way becomes increasingly dark, overgrown and claustrophobic. The morning sun has disappeared behind the clouds and a mist is descending over the forest as we reach another path. 

Checking out the flowers, fungi and footprints. Huge footprints that we can only assume belong to one of the many bears that live in this neck of the woods.  The track ahead was starting to get small and the only way up is over rather large boulders.  As we didn’t fancy Mac n Tosh sniffing out a bear, falling of a ledge or getting lost in the mist we put them back on their leads.   

The forest trail up the mountain was beautiful. The leaves were an amazing bright colour of green, occasionally reflecting the glaring sun that they so blocked out. It felt like we were in a tunnel and had no idea how long it would stretch. With no obvious path to follow, we just followed our instinct and enjoyed the walk. Stopping at many of the little shrines and watering point for a break.

Eventually, we found the chapel and cave of St. Ivan of Rila. This is the place were the Bulgarian hermit monk, the patron saint of Bulgaria lived out his final days. Ivan attracted people from far and wide as he performed various miracles and cures. In turn, this led to the foundation of the famous Rila monastery, which we will visit tomorrow.  Just behind the chapel is the vertical cave. Its pretty narrow and you need a torch to see the route through but we did it!

Behind the temple is the cave in which venerable John spent the last twelve years of his life. Here, it is said anyone who climbs through the cave can solicit the blessing and protection of the Hermit from Rila. Also there is a holy spring with healing water, which broke out after the prayers of the saint to which Mac n Tosh lapped up.

Climbing out the cave…blessed?

A fab walk and the dudes certainly loved it

Several more hours of trekking through the forest before we headed back to camp for BBQ.

The following morning, we are up bright and early to head over to the Rila Monastery before the crowds.  We arrive at 8am and for the next couple of hours we and half a dozen others enjoy having the place to ourselves.  The only thing we found the groups of chain smoking security guards rather distasteful and disrespectful. 

The Rila monastery was started by Ivan’s students while he lived in the forest cave. Later, his ascetic dwelling and tomb became a holy site and were transformed into a monastic complex. This played an important role in the spiritual and social life of medieval Bulgaria. The original Rila Monastery was destroyed but re-built at its present place during the 14th century. The oldest buildings are the Tower of Hrelyu (1334) and a small church just next to it (1343). Most of the monastery was destroyed by fire in 1833 and reconstructed between 1834 and 1862.

It’s a beautiful place…what do you think?

Archway surrounding the church

Rila Pews & Paintings

Rila Monastery

The Bell & Clock Tower