We pack up and prepare Vin for the last time before crossing the border to Serbia.  Croatia has been quite different than we expected. A picture postcard coastline followed by a green and cultural core with bright fields of corn and sunflowers. We have found Croatia to be infinitely more complex and diverse than we had been prepared for. Orderly, wilder and more beautiful too. Never once did we feel threatened, but always felt welcome.

The Serbian border is only a few miles away with the Danube river acting as a natural border. Our passports are checked by Croatian border control before we drive over the bridge.  At the other end we are greeted by Serbian passport control office, sitting comfortably in his little booth.  He scours the passport before firmly placing his stamp and giving us a nod to drive on. Even though Serbia is not in the EU you do not need any additional visa or entry requirements. Our insurance also provides cover at no extra cost…so double yippee. Two casually dressed but clearly official raise their hand and beckon us to the side.  One asks for our passports and flicks through the pages. The other enters our vehicle registration in to a handheld device. After several questions about about where we are going and valuables on board, we are free to enter Serbia. The welcome is cool.

The corn and sunflower fields continue but everything else feels completely different. On the main road to Novi Sad, almost every shop is selling some kind of vehicle salvage, from exhausts and wipers to seats and number plates. One greasy salesman stands proudly in front of a yard full of Zstarva body parts. Ancient trucks rattle up and down the road beeping horns and swaying to avoid the pot holes. After the quietness and cleanliness of Croatia, Serbia felt industrial and noisy. 

There are only two motorhome stops near Novi Sad and one of them is closed until the road repairs to the site are complete. With this in mind we make a dash to some 15 kilometres outside of Novi Sad is an agrotourism site named Farma 47, in the hope we can find a camper place. To our surprise we arrive to find not a single camper in sight.

Can you spot our motorhome?

The owner is a cheerful, welcoming chap and he invites us to sit down whilst he tells us about his farm. The cat, two puppies, his father and 500 flies join the welcome party. Using google translate he tells us we can stay anywhere on the site with electric, water and shower for €15 per night. We are free to wander the quince farm, the sheep pen, the horse paddock, the hay bales, look out tower, his home, which pretty much covers the entire site. He also does breakfast and evening meal on the open veranda.

Half way through his google workout he disappears to bring a welcome drink of home made quince brandy. Its has a rather raw alcohol taste (way too much for my palette), so Craig kindly chins my tipple at the appropriate time. We find our spot and settle down for a wonderful three days amongst the quince orchard. 

Our Bumble paid camping spot Novi Sad N045.388319, E019.820752

The outskirts of Novi Sad are a real mix of class from people living on the streets, the odd cardboard slum village, tatty high rise flats and occasional mansion. A complete contrast the core of Serbia’s second city, which boasts a broad pedestrianised street lined with delightful buildings and outdoor cafes. At one end of the main street, Backa Bishops Palace stands proud with its decorative stone windows. At the opposite end, the cathedral in yellow brick with a colourful roof and tower. 

The best experience is walking around the tiny alleys which feel like mini bazaars.  Rumbles in the tums and time to find somewhere for lunch. We scoured the cafes with amazing home cooked food and aromas to suit. Craig being the fussy eater didn’t fancy anything to exotic!   After half an hour debating we ended up at an authentic kebab shop. Our two chicken gyros arrived leathered in Tsaziki and raw onions. Accompanied by side portion of greasy chips and a bottle of water. About half way through we had a little chuckle, the meat had similar resemblance to the charred remains that we scrapped off the BBQ. But at £2.50 for the entire lunch we could hardly complain.

ice cream to wash down the gyros

Serbian merchants established Novi Sad as a trading town in 1694 and the town matured into thriving city and cultural hub. In 1849 Hungarian troops shelled the city, which it slowly rebuilt but the 1999 NATO bombing destroyed all three of its bridges and much of its infrastructure. Novi Sad is slowly undergoing a transformation. Half the city is still in rack and ruin, a quarter badly repaired and a quarter new build. Modern shopping complexes are shooting up on the outskirts, two of the bridges have been rebuilt and the third close to completion.  

With sunshine for a whole three days we made the most of our time. With plenty BBQ’s too.Early mornings doing the chores like washing, cleaning the van and fixing stuff.  Craig is adamant on fixing every little problem even when it doesn’t need fixing but thats men and tinkering for you. Although we did had a head scratcher of a problem when our Apple charge blew a fuse and tripped all the electrics. At first, we thought our inverter was goosed.

The city’s fortress dominates the high ground and located on the opposite bank of the Danube river. Built by the Habsburgs, it could shelter 30,000 men in its 10 miles of grounds and tunnels.  An afternoon, ride up the hill to Petrovaradin Fortress was enchanting. We stroll through the streets and inner park area, all built around and inside the old fortress. Neatly arrayed with trees and benches and statues of Serbian, heroes. Budding artists exhibit their paintings in the residential remains and the clock tower is a the place for capturing the best view.  At the forts edge an unobstructed view of the city and the Danube river.  

Inside the fortress grounds

In a few days time the fort will be home to their annual festival. This music festival began in 2000 as a student protest against the Milošević regime under the slogan “EXIT 10 years of madness”. This year, the internationally acclaimed festival is supported by Grace Jones, David Guetta and a host of singers and bands that we have never heard of.

Exit Festival

A few miles out the city is the wonderful village of Sremski Karlovci. After the choas of Novi Sad the historic village almost feels like a film set. We arrived and immediately the Patriarch’s Palace caught our eye. Standing proud like an Italian mansion at the foot of the village plaza. At the entrance, a friendly guide informs us its 100 Dinar (£0.75) to enter. Craig went to his wallet and we realised we had no local Dinar. Off we went in search of a bank and return just in time for the last tour of the day (closes at 2pm). Our friendly guided walked us around the palace treasury, pointing out all the key pieces and telling us the history of the village.

Front of the Palace

The village came into its own under Habsburg rule and it was the seat of the Metropolitan Bishop of the Serbian Orthodox Church. The Four Lions Fountain in the local square is a local icon and a place for Serbs to gather. It is said that those who drink from it will return to the town. Facing the fountain, the Orthodox Cathedral of St Nicholas and the Roman Catholic Church of the Holy Trinity. 

A few buildings down, Serbia’s oldest grammar school, founded in 1791 and painted in a striking red and yellow. The most fascinating building of all is the pharmacist. Outside rather bland but step inside and its like stepping back in time. Frescos cover the interior, floor to ceiling with old fashioned till and medicine boxes. 

Old Grammar School

The farmer (who’s name we cant pronounce never mind spell) mows the lawns, whilst his dad sprayed the crops. He points to the sky and shakes his head, storms are looming. We head over to the look out tower and watch the sunset over Farma 47, tomorrow we leave Novi Sad and head west towards the border with Bosnia.