Our motorhome attracts the crowds and as soon as we step out of Vin we are greeted with smiles and hello’s. We chat to loads of people of varying age and gender.  Some with excellent English and some by nods and thumbs up. Sener (Followmyjourney on instagram) speaks excellent English and he spends time showing us the map of Turkey and pointing out all the best places to visit. Thanks Sener! 

By lunchtime,  2 hours later than planned we leave the motorhome and tootle off in to Amasra. Well before the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts were developed for tourists, Amasra was Turkey’s first holiday resort. As the closest sea port to Ankara, it became a summertime haven for the capital’s creative elite in the 1940s. But when Turkish tourism began to attract an international crowd in the 70s and 80s, Amasra turned to coal, focusing its efforts on blasting the local hillsides for their reserves. It was the coal that saved Amasra from large scale development.

Over the past few years, Turks have started to return to Amasra, but there are still barely any foreigners here. We certainly do look the odd one’s out but the Turks make us so welcome we barely notice it. It feels like all quintessential seaside towns, only prettier – the sort of place where regular Turks take their normal lives, habits and routines, and simply transplant them to the seaside.  

I can’t stop laughing….we know absolute zero Turkish.  A friendly chap said something to us and Craig muttered something back under his breath. Five minutes later, I ask him what he said and he smiled “BOOMSHACKALA”.  He forgot the word for hello and thought it sounded ok….so boomshackala everyone!

We head for the flattened peak of Boztepe island, one of the two lumpy outcrops just beyond the tip of the peninsula. We cross the water on a crumbling Byzantine bridge and walk to the peak via the remains of Genoese towers and a handful of Ottoman era wooden houses. There are no tourist signposts or tours for these things, Amasra wears its history on its sleeve.  As we head back, we stop at a local bakers for a loaf of bread. It is stiflingly hot inside as the open wood fire is busy baking more fresh bread. The smell is divine and we opt for 2 red hot loaves, which we munch for lunch. 

We head out of the car park and a chap walks over. Payment on exit is required and at £1 for 24 hours it feels like a bargain. We wind our way back to Barton and join the D10 road. The next few hours we wind sinuously around rugged hills hugging the sea. It is breathtakingly scenic with vertical drops just haze that spoils the great views. Once again, the road are pretty good on the whole just the odd section which being repaired. Its not a terrifying route for anyone wondering about travelling in a motorhome. Its just slow like a roller coaster with the odd bend. 

With minimal traffic and stunning views at every turn we were able to admire the glistening turquoise waters.  Pulling in at small beach cove for afternoon tea!  Surrounded by lush forest headland and rugged white cliffs. Mac n Tosh run down to the shore and go sniff the seaweed. No dips today as the water feels way too cold. 

After a nice stretch on the beach we head off to find a parking spot for the night. Driving high in the cliff of the D10 we look down at the sea below. Most of the roads or dirt paths to the bays are too steep or inaccessible for a motorhome. As we approach the town of Cide the road starts to ascend to sea level.

We spot another one of those ‘high walled areas’ and decide to take a look. We drive in via the entrance and see lots of little pagoda style seating areas. Each one equipped with table, chairs, BBQ and rubbish bin. At the side space for parking.  Behind a large car park with several fresh water points and toilet facilities. We drive along and ask a family if it is ok for us to park. “Of course, it is free and you are welcome to our town”. We thank them and drive along to a free spot. Its like a cross between a large, private picnic spot and a free aire.  We have no idea what they are called, so we are going to nick name them ‘T’aire’s’ until we find out their real name. 

Our Bumble wild camping spot Gedes N041.870013, E032.901582

We spend the next two days parked up on the beach. Mac n Tosh spend hours playing in the sea and running along the 8km beach.  We enjoy Turkish company. We really can’t get over how friendly, welcoming and generous the Turkish people are. Every time a new family arrives they walk over with tea, food, cake and it is never ending. We are so full we don’t need to eat! Even when we hide inside the motorhome they gently tap on the door with plates of food. We have no idea on the Turkish custom for thanking people (as well as the obvious, saying thanks) but we do what we feel is the right thing and offer chocolates. Its a good job we stopped by the supermarket!  The chocolates seem to be well received with beaming smiles, hugs and kisses. 

In the evening, the beach is lined with people fishing and you guessed it…we got offered bags of free fish, in return for more chocolates, hugs and kisses. Feels like Turkey maybe cheaper than we planned. With no mosquitos and a cool sea breeze we sat out star gazing and listening the waves lap the shore. 

And the weather..its excellent. Nice and warm during the day but cool in the evenings, perfect just like the Turkish people.