We wake to more storm clouds and decide it will be a good day to travel to our next destination, Split. On our way to Split, we see the industrial side of Croatia’s coin. A skyline of factories, industrial units and a working port. The roadside is lined with piles of stones, carefully sifted and laid out to be crushed, either in machines or by roadside gangs. In the mountains you can see huge areas that have been quarried.  Ending up as concrete mix, beach chippings, crushed rock or slabs of travertine on buildings.

Just passed Split we approach Stobrec.  The factories and stone industry is replaced by marine supplies and shopping malls all set against the barron mountain range.  We turn off the highway towards the coast and wind down to Split Camping.  The reception staff are running wild checking people out so the next cashier can check someone in. Its full to capacity. As it is the only campsite in Split, it is not surprising.  Despite the chaos the staff are friendly, patient and extremely polite.  

Our Bumble paid camping, Split N043.503608, E016.527871

We spend the magic number of 3 nights at Split. We say magic because that seems to be the number if nights we spend in any one place in Croatia. As with the rest of our coastal stops, we spend time on the beach with the dogs, get battered with gusts of wind, eat pizza, enjoy a shandy or two and explore the sites. Oh and clear the awning from pine needles.

We didn’t know what to expect from Split. When researching which towns to hit on our Croatian adventure, the reviews on this town were mixed . Some people loved it and others loathed it. We decided to add it into our journey for the sole reason it is close to Trogir and a good point in which to head in land. 

Main promenade

One of the first things we did upon our arrival was go on a follow the wall walk of the old town. It is primarily built around Diocletian’s Palace which was erected in 305 AD. In contrast to most cities where the palace would be a protected place and a museum, this one isn’t. Residents never stopped living in the palace and to this day, locals have homes built within the city walls. Washing lines drape from window to electric pole and kids play footie with a tin can. This has resulted in this ancient palace still being a booming city. 

Without a map or sense of direction, one can easily discover the top attractions within the Old Town. With narrow, colourful streets packed with cafes, clothing boutiques, and souvenir shops. Along the main promenade, you’ll find big names like Zara, Bershka, Guess, with the Croatian National Theatre neatly tucked behind. The Republic Square, painted beautiful salmon and turquoise shades.

Due to the town still being in use, its ancient artefacts are constantly in reused if albeit for a different purpose.  The Roman roads that are 1,700 years old are still being walked on today. Like all worn cobbles they are dam slippy.  Roman columns are being used as armrests in banks and stumps to rest your weary legs.  3,500 year old Egyptian sphinxes are being used as photo props that tourists can sit on. What was once the temple of Venus is even now being used as a café called the Luxor.

Wandering in the middle of all this are relatively affluent day trippers and yachters, who obviously see this stretch of the coast as something of a beauty spot. They sit in chairs, buy soft drinks off the heads of itinerant salesmen and have their photos taken. You then have the swarms of people from the cruise liners, tourists on holiday and bob in and out folk like us. Its one choc place.

Balcony

These roman ruins are considered Split’s most well known attraction. Built by the Roman Emperor Diocletian, this former palace dates back to the fourth century. Apparently, segments of Game of Thrones were shot here although we have no idea, its something we’ve never watched. Furthermore, the best time of day to explore these monuments is in morning, to avoid large crowds and heat, especially in the summer. 

To make the most of the site we bought a ‘red ticket’ for 45 kn.  The ticket entailed entrance to the cathedral, bell tower, crypt, treasury and Temple of Jupiter.  Although the last three sites weren’t worth the extra money.

The Cathedral of St. Domnius was Diocletian’s mausoleum, an elaborate domed structure that local Christians converted to a church in the 7th century. The original structure was built from massive stone blocks and framed by 28 granite and marble columns that Diocletian supposedly brought to the palace after looting them from Greek and Egyptian temples during one of his campaigns.

The treasury is located on the second floor of the cathedral. Its very small and needs a good scrub. The display cabinets are a disgrace. Outside of the cathedral is the bell tower. A bit of a climb and not for people with a phobia for heights but excellent views from the top.  Underneath the cathedral the dark crypt with hand written letters. Across the main square you find the small Temple of Jupiter. 

At midday, the crowds gather in the main square outside the cathedral. The bells chime, the trumpets blow and the mock roman guards march to orders. The crowds cheer and roar as the tourist emperor welcomes all to the town of Split. All good fun and entertaining. From here, head to the underground market for a bit of shade. Its also a good place to mooch around with stalls selling local souvenirs.

In the evening, the Riva is one of Croatia’s busiest promenades. Tourists and locals mix as the sunsets behind the headland park. People linger over beer at the sidewalk tables or stroll hand in hand with ice cream. Food options are good but not great. We had hoped to find a nice traditional restaurant to celebrate our day. Its 30 years (I think) since we got engaged! But we couldn’t find a place that ticked the box.  Instead we joined the mainstream of eateries selling burgers, pizza and anything with chips. Although it was a rather nice quaint Italian restaurant in a lovely setting. 

Due to the mixed reviews, we arrived in Split with no expectations and left feeling a little mixed just like the reviews.  Its a great medieval town set inside a large city. Inside the walls, there is a lot to do and see, as well as a lot of history here! The downside it the sheer volume of tourists. With several cruise ships, day trippers as well as residents it gets way too crowded. Would love to visit out of season.