Last night, the temperatures dropped to a point we felt the chill and woke to grab our blanket.  A few hours snug under the fluffy but by 8am the sun was heating up Vin and the fluffy was flung. Craig nipped in to the village for a freshly baked loaf, which provided us with our daily fill for the day. 

East of Gemiciler the coastal drive is much easier with smooth roads and without the ups and downs of the coastal peaks. Vins fuel gauge is thankful. The waves crash over the rocks and it all too apparent why there are so many break water points along this section. We spot an attractive looking headland and pull in for a toot. The nesting cormorants along with a man setting up his garlic shop provide entertainment to accompany our brew (click to enlarge image). 

A little further along the coast and the bay near Dogan catches our eye. Here the breakwater provides locals with ideal place to bath and play volleyball. The cheers of children playing can be heard for miles around. We find a suitable grass patch to dry our washing and eat a rather naff lunch of chicken in breadcrumbs. In between Craigs trouser pants and my T-shirt flapping on the line, we watch a bride and groom pose for wedding photo’s.  Although why the photographer wanted to shoot next to a bay covered in rubbish is beyond us.

Skirting the city of Turkeli, we follow the road inland to a broad rising valley. The green and densely wooded area with flocks of sheep and cattle freely roaming the land. Minutes before we pass half a dozen lambs in a small pen at the side the main street.  A handmade sign ‘satilik’ suggested folk just drive by and purchase a whole lamb rather than a chop or two.  We could be in the English countryside but for the scores of red Turkish flags lining our journey.  The occasional glimpse of a smiley farmer tending to his fields on his little tractor. 

Our road eventually winds back to the coast and at Ayancik we notice a potential spot for the night. We drive down a dirt track to be greeted by a  chap with a rather large mustache. He politely asks up for 5tl (60p) to park on the campsite. We slowly drive in to the site, which is mainly tents and day trippers. To the west a nice patch of grass right next to the ocean. We tuck in and let the dudes go crazy playing with a Turkish giggle boy.   

Dudes want to play

Our Bumble paid camping spot Ayancik N041.709526, E034.916557

As we chill outside our neighbours bring us freshly roasted corn on the cob and next door but one, bring us tea.  The start of the gifts begins and ends with full bellies. In turn, we hand out chocolates and sweets, which seems to go down really well. Just before sunset and the land owner, Mohamed and his grandchildren go around the site collecting all the rubbish.  The tractor is not only practical but great fun for the kids. Mohamed is in awe of his youngest grandchild, aptly named Mohamed III.

The Black Sea bashes fiercely against the crumbling coast.  The wild sea breeze waft in which is much welcomed in this sticky heat. Unfortunately, these cooling breezes also carry a pungent aroma of sewage and rotting fish, which thankfully subsides at the turn of the tide. 

We never considered the Turks to be lively and liberal but our first camping experience we are proved wrong.  At sunset the tatty but cosmopolitan site becomes a thriving music scene. We find find ourselves, surrounded by families all signing and dancing.  Their enthusiasm to enjoy the summer night is contagious and everyone throws themselves into dancing, foot tapping, smoking snoop and drinking tea. Their is no band, no sound system just an old Tata car stereo to blast Turkish music across the site. The sound is very Asian with a beat almost akin to an Indian tempo. The audience embraces toddlers, children, men, woman and elders in equal numbers….and two very English travellers.