As we sip our morning brew and gaze out to sea, a black dot appears on the horizon.  We follow the dot with anticipation and as it slowly approaches the shoreline. Just before the break line it makes a sudden turn west, its a shark. We watch it weave for several minutes before it slowly fades out of view.  “Well that scuppers our morning plans, chuck” as I pat Mac n Tosh on the bonce “I have somehow lost my appetite for a morning surf with the dudes”. 

I take Mac n Tosh for a beach walk, chucking sticks and digging in the sand seems to satisfy their morning energy. We walk past the campsite shack selling inflatables and emergency flip flops. All is quiet this morning and even the cafe is abandoned. We continue over to the estuary and admire the old wooden houses.  I think they Ottoman style?  The owners grandson, Yusuf is sat on the steps looking ever so innocent in the morning light. On the way back, four teenagers offer me tea, I politely decline to which they then offer me snoop.  

The road ambled through gentle hills and fields dotted with cows and goats. Out of one window, evergreen trees zipped past, while out the other, narrow beaches sprawled parallel to the road. I was just thinking how flat and smooth the road is when Vin shuddered abruptly over a pothole. Maybe when they finish the very ambitious Black Sea Highway the potholes will be minimum. We approach Sinop and its pretty busy.  A dilapidated but picturesque promontory of castle walls, wooden Ottoman facades draped in fishing nets and rusty freighters. The only sunbathers on the beach are cattle and seagulls.

There are two car parks at the beginning of the peninsular but they are full to bursting, so we head on towards the harbour. There were no traffic lights just traffic jams. Compared with the chaotic streets of Istanbul at least the cars circulate in order and without much honking. The road takes us straight through the centre were Vin nearly tears down a low hanging Turkey flag. The pavements are crowded with people all shopping for last minute gifts before the tomorrows four day holiday.

About 1km out of the centre we pull up alongside neatly mowed grass, palm trees and a fabulous view of the harbour and coastline. Its on the main road but the wide parking space will do us just fine.  Plus its two minutes from a mini market and off license perfect for the weekly shop. With cupboards full, we finish the afternoon drying a few clothes whilst we sit on the grass and share gifts with our neighbours. This time, we receive two cups of Turkish lassie, a sort of salty yogurt drink that is certainly an acquired taste.  We much prefer the sweet variety but really appreciate the gesture.

Our Bumble wild camping spot Sinop N042.020282, E035.159865

As the day draws to a close, we make our way along the promenade to the Castle Tower.  Party boats sail by blasting out Turkish music and flashing colourful lights. The sun drops behind clouds, bathing the harbour and tree lined avenues in a warm glow. Couples strolled arm in arm along the seaside promenade.

Tonight, we are on a date night and Craig is treating me to dinner. Well, I thought so until he sniffed the delights of the kebab house. I am not sure if it was the huge meter long doner and chips or the price £1.50 including water than lured him to dine at the fine establishment.   All I can say, is we are eating out again soon and next time, I pick (click to enlarge photo).  

To finish the evening, we sit outside along the palm trees and watch the small fishing boats bring in their catches to shore. Its a chilly night for mid August, so we grab the fleeces and continue star gazing. 

In the morning, we strolled over to the ancient wall and climbed to stone steps for a panoramic view of Sinop. The dark waters of the Black Sea and the sheltered, natural harbour have attracted people to Sinop since 800 BC. Conquerors of different nationalities came, spoiled everything and went away. In spite of them, Sinop survived and now is waiting for curious travellers to discover its mysteries. 

Sinop is famous as the birthplace of the Ancient Greek philosopher Diogenes, who lived a beggar’s life on these streets around 300BC. His lifestyle earned him the nickname ‘the Cynic’, a word derived from the Ancient Greek word for ‘dog’. The philosopher is often credited with the founding of Cynicism – the belief that social conventions impede personal freedom and hinder one’s path to the good life, while living according to nature is the quickest way to satisfaction. According to local legend, Alexander the Great went to visit Diogenes and found him sitting outside. When asked whether he wanted anything from the king, the philosopher said, “You can stand aside and stop blocking the sunlight.”

The Aladdin Mosque dates from the early 13th century is located in the heart of the town. It was nearing lunchtime prayer, so Craig quickly popped inside whilst I took a peak at the old baths.  We noticed that not that many people appeared to be headed in for prayer and most people simply went about their business. Turkey is more secular than many Islamic countries so that may explain this or it could just be a misconception we have in the West that all Muslims are fanatic followers of radical Islam. At least there seems to be a more relaxed attitude here in Turkey. 

We walk further up the hill and join the queues for the former Ottoman prison.  Entrance fee…5tl or  60p using todays superb exchange rate.  The building originally began life as a ship building facility and castle in the early 13th century. The thick stone walls were curiously built using a mixture of cut stone as well as the remains of Greek structures that once stood on the site. One could see the ends of fluted Greek columns sticking out in various places along with other broken pieces of Greek sculpture. It is a fine example of early recycling. Great stone foundations dating to the Hellenic period have been excavated within the walls illustrating once again how various civilisations built on top of one another over thousands of years of occupation. The prison cells were hot, sticky, crowded and not as interesting as we’d hoped. 

I promise to be good

Just before sunset, we head off on Eor around the 13km peninsular. At the peak, the evergreen laden hills mark the place where the peninsula met the mainland. The high vantage point with panoramic view of the ink blue sea dotted with sail and fishing boats. Just above us at the top of the hill is a former U.S. military facility.  It was active during the Cold War due to its location just across the Black Sea from the Soviet Union but now a dormant Turkish base.

The North side of the island is such a contrast to the South.  With no buildings, a couple of homesteads and a dramatic windswept landscape.  A feeling of like we could be with here with Kelvin.  There is no doubt the town has a certain appeal. A nice blend of residential town and Turkish resort. Bursting with Turkish culture and activity, which is warm, welcoming and extremely hospitable.