Evening View

Our parking spot is rather special with elevated views of Doğubayazıt, İshak Paşa Palace and wonderful landscapes in every direction. Its only the morning after the day before do we really appreciate our rocky perch. We cant praise the setting enough, it is superb. And although we can’t quite see the majestic Mount Ararat or Ağrı Dağı as they say in Turkey. We only need to walk down the road 10 minutes and boom, there it is. Standing at 5137 meters (16,850 ft) it is Turkey’s highest mountain and our highest mountain to date. We love the place so much, we set up our stall and use the site as our base.

Our Bumble paid camping spot at Doğubayazıt GPS position N039.516857, E044.124909

Eor our little monkey bike certainly had a run for his money, as we scooted him all over the landscape. Dotting from Kurdish village to craters to borders and anywhere that caught our attention. Once again, we met loads of lovely Turkish, Kurdish and Martin, a French guy who has spent the last four months cycling here from France. What a guy.  The best thing about travel is all the people you meet, the stories you share and the friendships you make along the way.

We spent the evenings drinking tea with the campsite owner, star gazing, watching the sunset but our fascination was drawn to the nightly light show. Our elevated position means we overlook a huge plain which is rife with military posts and barracks. As the sunsets, the morse code begins, as each base sends signals to each other via a sequence of flashing lights.  

Doğubayazıt

The town of Doğubayazıt itself doesn’t have many obvious attractions, but it has character and charm. It is buzzing with life and a must for watching people and bazaar shopping. However, make sure you cover up. Not because of the religion but the dust.  This place must be one of the dustiest places on earth and so much so, the fire engines constantly patrol the town hosing all the streets. If you are lucky you will miss the firing line but no matter what you are guaranteed to get covered and caked in mud. 

Look at the rock on the right…it looks like a dog

Base of Mount Ararat

If you turn right along the road to main highway to Iran and then take a left just before the border (through the check point – take your passport) you see some traditional Kurdish farm community’s. Located right at the base of Mount Ararat with views across the spectacular plain. It is sparsely populated and beautiful part of the region.It also seems a world away from Turkey and military presence.

Corner shop

As we drive through the small communities we can see a typical Kurdish house is made of mud brick with a wooden roof. Locals tell us in summer, they sleep on the roof where it is cooler. Some homes have under ground rooms to use in the winter to escape the cold. There is no indoor plumbing or heating. Further in the hills, we saw how a few remaining nomadic Kurds live in tents. 

Kurdish culture is a communal culture, in which the interest of a community is more important than that of an individual. However, traditional communality is threatened by urbanisation. The children of families who have moved to cities have grown up without the support of the community, and often in poverty, which is shown in cultural changes. Those children have grown up without the skills and upbringing of a traditional town community and have not adopted its values.  This is very evident when you head in to Doğubayazıt were children scout the streets asking for ‘money’. Young girls with babies beg alongside traffic lights and homeless teenagers feed from waste bins. 

The roads around the plain are non existent just bloody bumpy dirt tracks. Our bums soon felt bashed and bruised. On approach to one village we are stopped by a human blockade. A group of teenage lads are curious and want us to stop. As we chat, an elderly man walks to the edge of the stream, removes his shoes and socks, rolls up his trousers and wades out to a large, flat rock in the stream. He washes his hands, feet and head and then begins his afternoon prayers.  In turn standing, kneeling and then pressing his forehead to the rock. Once he’s finished he carefully negotiates the way back and dries his feet with a cloth. The teenagers don’t even notice him. 

On our return, we travel through more check points. Again, the police and army are very polite and friendly. We show our passports and are free to carry on with our journey. Somehow the intimidation and unease seems less than yesterday. Maybe, its just a case of getting used to life living life under military control where your every move in the area is monitored. 

This month, we have received loads of emails, messages and comments from people all around the world. Our intermittent wifi means we are struggling to keep up with all the replies but promise to get back to you all as soon as possible. People say we are an inspiration but we really struggle when people say that because we are just original people travelling in a motorhome.  We certainly find all your comments, so supportive and encourages us to keep writing…so thanks guys!  Oh and if anyone fancies life on the road from a father and daughter perspective, check out Joanne & James website.

Nothing like a cool refreshing beer to end a good day. Tomorrow, we are off to visit the Palace.