Although we’re still within Turkish borders, the Kurdistan region is quite different, and more traditionally Persian compared to the country’s heartland.

Heading up beyond Murat Camping to the mountains behind provided a glimpse in to the life and times of the Kurdish community.  It is clear the Kurds do not like being controlled by the military and police.  The Kurds we talked to are quite open and vocal about how they feel but when they talk they always whisper. Clearly, a fear of someone over hearing them. They feel trapped and want to be free and as many do not have passports or ID they struggle to move from town to town.  This is a volatile area and clashes between Kurds and Turks is not uncommon hence the military presence. Will it ever change…we can be hope that we all can live in harmony, one day.

The area of Kurdistan is located in four different countries – Turkey, Iran, Iraq and Syria. The area of Kurdistan is an ethnic area, not a country, and the Kurds live among the other nationalities. They are the biggest nation in the world without their own country.

The Kurdish social life is based on an old clan system. They are farmers and according to some views, one of the essential characteristics of Kurd culture is the relationship with the ground.  History of the Kurds is tinged with violence and hence why there is so much Turkish military presence.

On the way back, we chose to head off the track and over the mountains. It was beautiful, driving along mountain spines, valley walls and through more Kurdish villages. Along the way we came across nomadic Kurdish shepherds and their flock of sheep.  They travel in single file on the mountain slopes, looking like giant army ants. Three massive kangal, Anatolian shepherd dogs the size of lions, patrolled along the edge of the flock. They protect the livestock from bears and wolves and are known to have a nasty temper.

We waved to the shepherds and continued driving cautiously without stopping. Next minute, the dogs took lunged and took flight towards our path. “Shine a bloody light Craig, they are heading for us…go,go,go”  Craig put his foot down struggling to keep the bike upright over all the rocks and boulders. The dam dogs chased us for a good mile or so and it didn’t half get scary.  Needless to say we haven’t got any pictures but put a link in so you can see the size of these immense canines.  If thats not bad enough…we got chased again about 20 minutes later.

Tomorrow we leave Mount Ararat but where to…that’s tonights agenda!

Young Kurdish farmer stops by to say hello