Looking over the river to old city
We are parked just above the Tigris River and surround by a beguiling and fascinating settlement that feels like an open air museum. The waters of the river gave rise to the first settlements of the fertile crescent in Anatolia, the cradle of civilisation. This ancient city of Hasankeyf, built around the banks of the river, may be one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in the world. Spanning some 10,000 years. Its surrounding limestone cliffs are home to thousands of human made caves, medieval monuments and a unique canyon ecosystem (click to enlarge photo’s).
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- Overhanging cafes
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- Souvenir street
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- Old minuet
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- Shop
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- Cave Cafe
Craig rolls Eor out the garage and we prepare for a scoot around the area. People from nearby tea shops walk over. We start notice how much more openly curious people are here than on the Black Sea. ‘Where are you from, why are you here?’ they ask. Occasionally, a passing group of men quite unapologetically stand alongside us and get a friend to take a photo, as if we too are part of the tourist attractions. I guess in a part of the world were very few westerns travel, we are somewhat of a curiosity.
Everyone puts their bed on the roof in summer, cooler.
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- Cave
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- 100’s of dwelling
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- Tomb
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- Mosque
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- People living in caves
Gorges of caves being destroyed
Once the photos and questions stop, we hop on Eor. The city, along with the archaeological artefacts still buried beneath it, is doomed to become a sunken treasure. The massive hydroelectric Ilisu Dam is expected to be completed soon and flood significant parts of the region. When I say soon, it was due to be complete in 2013 but we recon it is still a good 5-10 years off completion.
The reservoir created by the dam will inundate the site’s caves and flood most of its structures.The 453 foot high dam will hold back the waters of the Tigris just before it flows into Syria and Iraq. It will creat a massive 120 square mile reservoir that will raise the water level in Hasankeyf more than 200 feet. The consortium and the Turkish government maintain that the dam will provide power and irrigation to the area, encourage local development and create jobs.
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- Constructing the dam
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- Old Bridge
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- Water to keep dust down
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- Construction site
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- Diggers move in
More than 20 cultures have left their mark at Hasankeyf. The first settlers probably lived along the Tigris in caves carved into the rock cliffs. The Romans built a fortress there circa 300 AD to patrol their empire’s eastern border with Persia. It was later conquered by the Arabs then ruled by the a clan of Kurdish chieftains and not forgetting the Mongols, who conquered the region in 1260. Hasankeyf emerged as an important commercial center along the Silk Road during the early Middle Ages. Marco Polo passed over its once majestic stone, brick and wooden bridge, built around 1116. In 1515, the city was absorbed into the Ottoman Empire and has since remained a part of modern Turkey.
Tomb of Zeynel Bey
Among the site’s most important structures are the ruins of the 12th century palace of the Artukid kings; the El Rizk Mosque, built in 1409 by the Ayyubid sultan Suleiman; and the 15th century cylindrical Tomb of Zeynel Bey. The tomb is decorated with glazed blue and turquoise bricks in geometric patterns that suggest a significant artistic link between Central Asia and Anatolia.
Old Town with New Town in the distance
We find the new city built high on the slopes of the opposing bank rather fascinating too. A mixture low rise apartments and detached villas. The massive area is still under construction along with the relocation of the key structures. As we wander through the complex we wonder what the government have offered the local people. Craig thinks they will be given one of the small apartments, whilst I rather hope the opposite. It would be nice to think they are given an upgrade for their inconvenience, relocation and loss of home.
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- New Build
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- Reconstruction of Mosque
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- Building on Site
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- New Bridge
Hasankeyf is an area you could walk around for hours. Winding through the streets and peering through the caves. But all the building work combined with the intense heat creates more dust than our chest or skin can bear. The constant feeling of being wrapped in a fine powder is rather irritating on the skin. Several showers both clean our pores and cool us down.
Shocking that 10,000 years of human habitation is going to be inundated. You are so lucky to see the place. I am reading a lot at the moment about pre-history and the transition of humans from nomadic to more settled existences. Cyprien Broodbank’s ‘The Making of the Middle Sea’ is all about how interactions between settled the agriculture communities in the Euphrates and Tigris valley with more mobile, mercantile people living on the shores of the eastern Mediterranean helped define the characterstics of Eurasian culture. I would love to visit some of the archaeological sites. People rightly were outraged when Isis attempted to blow-up Palmyra, but how is the Turkish government’s action here any different? Both are about imposing contemporary values by eradicating the past. All very sad. Anyway, great post, fabulous photos as ever – keep on trucking!
We’d love to travel alongside you Pete, you would shed so much light on the places. Give it a whole new meaning
What a fascinating read. You two visit the most interesting places. I loved all the brilliant photos.
Thanks Joan, the places are turning out to be rather special x
Wonderful sunset Joanne, but please take care as you head for the Syria border. Keep away from any trouble spots xx
We will Audrey, no intensions of going anywhere if it feel remotely unsafe.
Quite like the look of this area as caves have always fascinated me. Do you know when the dam is due to be opened or is it a constant moving goal post?
We look at think it will be at least another 5 years, if they get their skates on but more likely 10 years Jake.
We decided Max could do with some quality wine so first of all a few days in Eger for a little red Bulls Blood then just to sweeten him up we are now in Tokaj for some luscious golden nectar. We off course have not partaken…feels very tame to your jaunt.
Sounds like a good weekend Mike
What an incredible experience! Who would have thought that about Turkey and even more shame that they have unrest.
A lot of the unrest is overhyped by the media.
Wherever you go, whatever you see, nothing sticks with you like the human connections and relationships that you form. It is always wonderful to realize how people all over the world are hospitable.
True Karen, friendships and memories that last forever and Turkey is certainly high on the interaction x
Thanks for the great travel impressions; I am flying to Turkey next week for work (but hopefully with a little time to see some of the country’s beauties). My concern is whether it is safe as a single female traveler to take taxis in Hasankeyf and SE Turkey? I heard different things (one female colleague living there until 2015 advising me against it) but other people I spoke to said that it is rather OK now…would appreciate your advice!
It is a bit difficult for us to comment because we haven’t had any experience of travelling alone in this region. We met a single chap who loved it but have yet to bump in a single female. I guess you will soon get the feeling of the place after a few weeks settling in.