We woke at 4.45 am feeling as if we had spent the night with our head attached to a yoyo. Up, down, up, down as another group of people played music or fishing boats zoomed by or ambulances rushed by or dogs barked or drunks took a pee around the back of the over turned hull. It was a busy night and non stop hive of activity.

With time on our side we set off early and sauntered over to the Grand Bazaar. We arrive before the crowds and the backstreets of bazaar are full of rubbish from the night before. The shop owners are busy sweeping up and getting everything clean and tidy for the crowds. Istanbul is one of the busiest, over populated but cleanest cities we have ever visited. Walking through the ghostly streets with vendors setting up shop was certainly worth getting up for, as by 10 am it was heaving (click photo to enlarge). 

When the bazaar doors open, business spills out anywhere and everywhere. We walk through the bazaar, which is well stocked with goods, aimed at the tourist and local alike. Rugs, tiles, lamps, tea, slippers, spices, pots, pans and bucket loads of Turkish Delight. With 66 streets and alleys, more than 4,000 shops, numerous storehouses, moneychangers and banks, a mosque, post office, police station and private security guards, Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar is said to be the largest covered bazaar in the world. And it certainly felt huge and although a bit different, it certainly reminded us of our friends post.

I absolutely loved wandering down the cobbled alleys and looking in all the shops. Not sure Craig enjoyed the experience. He doesn’t do well around busy places, it makes him grumpy. To give a little light relief we follow the rabbit warren of lanes downhill to the Golden Horn and bear left to Sülemaniye Mosque Complex. It was quiet, peaceful and very beautiful. With immaculate gardens, a mosque, the tomb of Süleyman the Magnificent and great views over the city, it allowed owd grumpy chops some light relief. 

Before head back through the bazaar, we managed to find a post office for the HGS (toll system) but sadly didn’t get very far. There are two classes of vehicle cars (class 1) and other (class 2) and the post office had run out of class 2.  To be honest, our route will probably mean we don’t need one for a while but at £10 we thought it would be easy to purchase here in Istanbul. Ah well, we will try a shell garage when we move on.  We have better luck at Turkcell with our purchase of a new sim card with 7gb data, 3 hours of calls the the UK, local calls and texts for initial £25. The prepaid card can be topped up monthly for around £9 for the same deal. 

Lunch time through the bazaar. It’s bewildering. There’s so much noise that they could be committing a bank raid and we would not know. Little did we know the Turkish currency was falling through the floor and everyone was going crazy changing money.

Hordes of locals gathering around the currency stands watching the rates plunge from 15p to 10p per Lira. Local film crews lined up outside the bazaar, filming the crowds as their faces watched the screens wipe a third off their value. Out of no where a guy walks in to one of the exchange offices with two bags of money, he is escorted through the crowds by two armed soldiers. Panic set in and quite rightly as all of a sudden the US, Sterling and Euro bill used in the bazaar was suddenly worth a lot less.  The political turmoil of US and Turkey filters down and hits the majority of the population right the hardest. For us, it means the opposite our journey through Turkey just got significantly cheaper. 

At one end, where gates lead into the bazaar, tourists take tea on cafe balconies and sit amid the action. Completely unaware of the chaos around the corner. The locals favour the food cafes, which are pop up between stalls. The people serving the food have plenty banter and add noise to creat attention and commotion. I treat myself to the Turkish pistachio cone, not sure of its name but its pretty good and some other little treats.  

Back at base, I take Mac n Tosh for a walk down our favourite sea front. Once again, the sights and smells are endless. Dotted between the pavement and the road are tied rubbish bags waiting collection. In between the bags the homeless sleep and shelter. Some covered in plastic bags, some in blankets and others just snoozing in the sun.  I wonder if the bin men ever pick up the bag in error?  

After a light lunch we zoom off on Eor to explore the modern and affluent side of Istanbul. Barbers, garages, tool shops and cement stores line the streets immediately after the bridge. Not a woman in sight. Cutting, fabricating and panel beating seems to be going on in every corner. Plenty shouts and hand gestures too as weld sparks light the alleys.  We stop at the lights and I watch a middle aged chap bash and old oil drum with hammer. I might be wrong but I would I am pretty sure he was making a car wing. We continue along the coast road following the Bospherus sea which separates the west from the east. The Dolmabahçe palace dominates the shore, shame its closed on Mondays.  

And later, as darkness falls, we find our eyes growing tired. Its been an early start and a long day.  We find ourselves just sitting on the steps outside the motorhome, looking up at the stars. Its a beautiful clear night and counting stars seems a relaxing end to an action packed day. There is no view but upwards.