It has to be said that Nemrut Dagi is one of the most mystical and awe inspiring places in Turkey. Before we arrived in Turkey, we knew very little about Nemrut other than the huge stone faces. Little did we know it was an ancient burial site. And what better way to appreciate the sacred site than at sunrise. Although when the alarm clock sounded at 4.00, our appreciation was somewhat muted.
The climb from the car park to the first point (fork in the road) is not too far. Maybe half an hour, but you are not allowed to walk along the road, so we tootle over to the shuttle bus and hand the driver 10TL for 2 people. Within minutes he was off and driving like a bat out of hell. The road writhed around a series of switchbacks over precipitous drops, which thankfully we could not see in the darkness. In a short space of time we arrive at the drop off point, the small car park and ramshackle cafe below the summit of Nemrut Dagi. Last night, we took the left turn and this morning, we take the right hand path up towards the eastern terrace.
Nemrut Dagi (Mount Nimrod) is a 7001 ft high mountain in the south east of Turkey. On top of the mountain sits a mass of stone chipping’s piled high into a conical summit. It looks weirdly false and it is false. The 50 metre high pile of nondescript stones is actually a pyramidal tomb structure built for King Antiochus I in 62 BC. As king of Commagene, he was the progeny of a long line of royals from both the Hellenistic Seleucid Empire and also the Achaemenids of Persia.
Half an hour before sunrise and we reach the viewing platform. We sit in silence with a dozen or so early birds and gaze over the River Firat and the neighbouring plains. To our surprise we are probably the youngest up here with the majority of visitors being Turkish and over 60. We sit patiently and wait. At 06.17 the first sun beams appear on the horizon and everyone cheers. Then slowly but surely the stone heads of Nemrut light up in the warm morning glow. By 07.00, the mountain was almost deserted and we had the place to ourselves.
The courtyards to the tumulus are shaped like terraces. To the east and the west the stone terraces originally hosted enormous 30ft statues. One of King Antiochus I, two lions, two eagles plus several Greek, Armenian and Iranian Gods. It is also believed the statue of the lion represents Leo, one of the oldest horoscope images in the world. The religious ceremonies were held on the western side, which is the most damaged. Today, heads, rubble and delicate pale blue plants are all that remain of the giant stone statues. The statues on the east are in much better condition.
It is thought that the king’s bones or ashes were put inside the room carved into the main rock. Then covered by the tumulus which is 50 meters high and 150 meters in diameter. It is said, the tomb is built in such a manner that if anyone tries to unearth the tomb, the whole summit will collapse on itself.
East Terrace
Over the centuries, the site has crumbled into ruins. Earthquakes have toppled the enormous stone heads from the shoulders of the statues and left them scattered around the mountain top. The statues were once seated on the thrones that can be seen in the photos, with names of each god inscribed on them. The heads of the statues have at some stage been removed from their bodies. The rest of the damage, sadly, is down to human destruction.
West Terraces
According to inscriptions left behind before he died, Antiochus said he wanted to be buried in a high, isolated and holy place.
By all accounts he succeeded. He built his own pantheon on this summit and entombed himself among the gods.
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Quite the visit to a truly unique corner of the world. After translating a work by a scholar familiar with the region, a work which never would have been written if not for the OTHER, original Nemrut to the East of this one. I appreciate this piece and the wonderful images you’ve included, but what intrigues me the most of course is the title: “Entombed Amongst the Gods.” I’m wondering why you chose this phrasing, specifically. If it has anything to do with the original builder of this monumental piece of architecture, then great, I get it–no details necessary. But this title hearkens back to a far more ancient and earth-shaking idea: if this were not true then rulers such as this one (Antiochus the 1st, right?) would never have engaged in these burial practices, ones that continue to be popular in today’s day and age.
Thanks very much for this!
Thank you so much for such a thoughtful comment — I love when someone brings real knowledge and curiosity to a place like Nemrut. You’re absolutely right: the title “Entombed Amongst the Gods” is very much a nod to Antiochus I and his grand vision of placing himself within a divine lineage. There’s something wonderfully audacious about a ruler carving out a mountaintop throne room and then positioning himself—quite literally—among the gods he claimed as family.
But it also felt bigger than just one king. Standing up there, surrounded by toppled heads and that vast, otherworldly silence, the whole site carries this ancient human impulse to reach upward, to be remembered, to anchor oneself to something eternal. The title came from that feeling as much as from the history: the sense that Nemrut is both a tomb and a statement, a place where ambition, belief, and mythology all meet on the same ridge.
I really appreciate you taking the time to read and reflect so deeply. Comments like yours make sharing these travels all the more rewarding.
Beautifully said. This really is a special part of the world. “Grand vision,” “divine lineage,” “audacious,” “positioning oneself among the gods,” “bigger than just one king,” “tomb and statement,” “where ambition, belief, and mythology all meet,” and, most importantly: “the human impulse to reach upward and be remembered” are all extraordinary ideas that did not exist before the events upon the other Nemrut to the East.
We’ve been schooled to look elsewhere to find our pasts, and I’m glad that people are now zeroing in on where it all went down. Sadly, all the ambition inherent in a lot of these ideas are inevitably tied to destructivity, which is where the other Nemrut and its many eruptions come in. If you’re familiar with the Greek mythological feature of Typhon, know that this not only represents volcanic forces, but a singular volcanic phenomenon few are familiar with and which was likewise entombed in a similar manner–on Nemrut “East.” Local legends still speak of a mad king who shot “fiery arrows” at the heavens.
All of the ideas you mention or hint at occurred right there in Eastern Turkey. It’s the region highest on my list of places to visit. I’ll get there…
All the best to you and yours!
Wonderfully put—Eastern Turkey is extraordinary. Hope you get to experience it soon!
We came across your blog when looking for inspiration of places to see in Turkey and am really enjoying reading your adventures even if I’m a year late to the party; we just went to Mount Nemrut – thanks so much for your write up, it encouraged us to go. Cheers!
No problem, it is a great place to visit.
Amazing Joanne. I really wish I had the courage to be a bit more adventurous. 🤔
Such an epic trip..I am loving following along. Gorgeous photos and writing 😄
Thank you Gilda. Loved your trip to Norway too x
What an amazing trip you’re having! Its been great following along, the photos and write-up are spot on!👍
Thank you Kate x
Wonderful! I studied Ancient Greece and Rome in 6th form but some of the sites almost seem like theme parks compared to what you have visited! you really are stepping back in history!!!xxx
You’d be a perfect travel companion for this trip.
Hi Joanne and Craig, Mac and Tosh. another awesome read. One of those stone statues looks like me first thing in the morning..all cracked up ..When do you intend to exit Turkey and where next..As always, Keep safe. and keep them coming..
Haha me too, lined to bloody el. Our visa limits us to 90 days, so we leave in about a months time. We will head in to Greece until the weather turns and then tootle home for Christmas.
I absolute love the road trips around Turkey. I’ve only been to Turkey once, but we road-tripped across 4 regions in January! It was awesome, but we did have a few hairy moments on the cliff, and a couple of roads were closed because of the snow. We also used Google map and a Navigator which up in the mountain proved to be quite useless as we ended up in the middle of no-where one night with signs saying “This is the wrong direction” literally, in a very dark unfenced field…! So we drove backwards and ended up in the right direction 2 hours later close to midnight.
Thank goodness my German husband is an excellent driver ‘cos I don’t drive…!
Would I travel in a mini-campervan? Not with a husband AND a teenaged boy!
Brilliant story Victoria and know what you mean about satnav systems. Half the time the roads aren’t even on never mind closed.
I share your fascination for enjoying every part of a trip and being able to observe and learn from the possibly boring motorhome journeys.
I sometimes shoot videos out of the window, and then watch them in super slow motion to see the people and the surroundings more clearly. Walking around, some people change their expressions to you, but driving by offers a perspective to see people in their natural routines. It can be pretty cool! Try it.
Good idea on the video front but I would just film for hours and then Craig would go bonkers cause the battery is dead lol
I love Turkey too and enjoy every minute of it. Definitely not what I’ve expected before going there. Nemrut Dagi looks amazing and definitely less touristy than the many other UNESCO world heritage sites. I’ve missed mount though. Maybe next time. Great article by the way
If you get chance to go Amir, I can recommend it.
Your making me so envious
Trip for next year Geoff
Wow!! Joanne I think your travels this year have been amazing. I don’t know how you find all these amazing places. This one looks like a film set. Love you tell us a little history too
Thanks Joan. This one has been on the bucket list for a while, so quite easy ti find in scheme of things. Although it is confusing when there is another mountain called Nemrut!
I have seen the photos but like you never knew much about them. We are so going to follow your journey, as soon as funds allow. Can I ask when you’ve finished touring you do a route of your map. I just want to do your journey.
We’ve been plotting the route, so a map should be no issue Alison
Another awesome read and pictures Joanne love, enjoying thus journey with you so much my friend. Xx
Afternoon Audrey x
I missed you yesterday folks! My Monday morning blues beaters. This post is shit hot and got to be one of the best places you have visited.
Haha as always you don’t mince your words Jake. Had a day off yesterday x
I just cant wait for your posts in a morning! What happened yesterday, I so missed them. This olace looks sureal. There is so much history in Turkey , it’s an amazing place .
Had a day off yesterday but service back to normal lol