Konya, a city of a million souls, squats slap in the middle of Anatolia’s wild plain, surrounded by open, endless prairie. Turkey’s most culturally conservative city, which seems at first to be a place of tight headscarves and foreboding beards, of ostentatiously observed pieties and forbidden beers. But stay a few days and strangely enough this place really grows on you.

Rumi is known to Turks as Mevlana (the Sainted One), and today Konya is in thrall to Mevlanamania. He is also one of the world’s most read poets. During his life, and since his death in 1273, pilgrims have come to Konya. Almost every year, several million or so folk flock to visit this holy city. Most are Turkish, although many Iranians (who claim Rumi as their own, because he wrote in their language and was born in eastern Persia) also make the pilgrimage.

War Museum & Memorial

Today, Rumi’s tomb is Turkey’s second most visited tourist attraction after the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul. Rumi was a mystic, a Sufi saint who loved all religions, and whose own religion was love. His followers would (and still do) lose themselves in trance and dance, sometimes spinning like tops for hours on end.

Green Roof of Rumi’s Tomb

So loved was Rumi that when he died in 1273, the people of Konya mourned solidly for 40 days. He was buried in a splendid rose garden in the palace grounds of the city’s sultan. A magnificent mausoleum was built over his grave. Now known as the Mevlâna Museum, the lodge complex with the mausoleum’s vivid turquoise tiled dome, sister minaret and mosque, is one of Konya’s most distinctive sights. Rumi’s devotees, well known for imitating Rumi’s spinning ritual, were then organised into a brotherhood called the Mevlevi or Whirling Dervishes.

The dance of the Dervishes is the reason we are here. It is something I have wanted to see for a long time and so our first priority is to find out when and where the performance is held. Lucky for us, the weekly performance is held tonight at 7pm in the extremely large and modern conference centre.

The old city sits at the junction with Alaaddin mosque, the city’s vantage point. The ebony pulpit and delicate prayer niche are from 1155. The boulevard radiating from here brings you to Rumi’s tomb. Up until recently, Mevlana’s followers and the Mevlevi, were a banned organisation, tolerated only for their “folkloric dancing” and whirling. Meetings were held secretly, illegally. Thankfully, change has come and people can worship in public. Rumi’s image now adorns everything from hoardings to souvenir snow domes.

Detailed archways

Before we got lost in the crowds of Mevlanamania we called in to a Turkcell to top up our sim card. 45TL or £5.50 for 7gb, which is not bad at all. Then a wander through the bazaar to find Craig a new pair of trainers. I’ve tried to get him to buy a new pair for months, but he is a typical fella and makes every excuse possible. I spot a trainer shop and I half expect a sulk when I suggest we go inside but nah, he willing follows. I nearly dropped dead with the shock! Five minutes later we emerge from the underground labyrinth with a pair of odour free trainers and £12 lighter.

Old Mosque

We wander around the streets watching life go by. As with all towns and cities in Turkey there is always something new something different to catch your eye. Today, its leeches. Huge plastic water containers stuffed full of the blood sucking creatures. Sellers quickly and proficiently scoop up the required number and pop them in to a small water bottle. Hard to believe all of this is happening right beside the Sahip Ata mosque.

Leeches for sale

Unlike much of the Muslim world, in Turkey you are encouraged to visit mosques, whatever your religious tastes. Craig bobs his head inside, I refrain as the men are starting to gather. From dusty carpet shops in the bazaar, from cafés selling kebabs and salty flatbreads, and from rose and tulip stalls in the markets, the city’s men – young and old – head to the mosque. Once inside, they turn to Mecca, kneel and start the rituals of prayer practised here for centuries.

Silk Wall Hangings

We also lunch out at one of Konya’s many eateries. I sampled one of the famous Etli ekmek a long, thin roll-up pizza spread with delicately spiced mince & chilli. Craig stayed safe an opted for chicken kebab.

With full bellies and glass of sweet Turkish tea we make our way to Rumi’s tomb. We join the awestruck, the curious and the fervent. For them, Rumi’s tomb is a well known holy site, but in the West despite a recent interest in Rumi’s poetry the mausoleum is little known. Yet the museum is far from secret or exclusive. Just as Rumi preached inclusivity, the great Ottoman silver doors at his tomb’s entrance are open to all. Everyone is invited to delight in the beauty that lies within (free to enter).

Outside the silver doors to Rumi’s tomb

At the silver doors, we cover our shoes with blue plastic bags. I chuckle as Craig struggles to stretch the bags over his size 11’s shiny new trainers. Huffing and puffing and tutting, of course. I cover my head with a scarf and we step inside (click to enlarge photo).

Inside is a different world, it is not as beautiful as I imagined and nor is it elaborate but it feels decidedly holy. It almost feels like an old church/school hall. The sunlight streams through the stained glass windows onto the mausoleum’s tiled walls. It creates a kaleidoscope of colours and patterns on what would otherwise be a bland wall. In the background, we hear delicate music from a reed flute. The Turks call it music for the soul. Rumi’s sarcophagus is draped in heavy brocade, embroidered with precious gold threads. Placed upon it is a huge turban, symbolic of Rumi’s spiritual authority. The nearby tomb of Rumi’s son is similarly decorated. There are more than 60 other sarcophagi here too, the resting places of other family members and eminent Dervishes.

Tombs

Some of pilgrims read the koran, and others chant Rumi’s poetry. Most take photos, although this is strictly forbidden. There are those who weep silently, and those who are completely over whelmed to be inches from his tomb. There are those who laugh out loud, others who meditate and people who hurry dash through. It is a mixed reaction and needless to say, the majority are devote followers.

Within the complex, small rooms exhibit varies artefacts and precious religious objects. In a side mosque, the light from crystal lamps and ornate lanterns reveals Rumi’s treasures. Including a casket holding rose scented strands of Mohammed’s beard, ancient prayer rugs and a copy of the Koran so tiny that its creator is said to have gone blind creating it.

Tiny Koran

The rest for the afternoon is spent walking the dudes and playing ball. Oh and checking out more detail on Rick & Kathy’s fantastic website, loads of inspiration and if you drop them an email they are so good at helping you out with information.  But no more motorhome stuff as tonight, we are of out to watch the swirling dervishes. Bring it on!

Our Bumble free camping spot at Konya GPS position N037.869781, E032.550082