Day 64: Take Two, The Swirling Dervishes, Konya 2 Comments


There’s a massive, impressive new municipal auditorium where this tender whirling human ballet is performed. They perform in the hall every Saturday night and the performance last one hour, it is superb.

Arrive early for prime seats…Craig is on the front row

In the world’s grandest Whirling Dervish hall, a devout and rapturous audience savours every step the Dervishes make. For Konya is Turkey’s most Islamic city, with over a million people living and worshipping here. Even in the shadows of the stage their white robes appear luminous. Now moving into the light, they twinkle like stars. Synchronising perfectly, they spin and turn, forming a glittering constellation. Human gyroscopes, the dancers are the famous Whirling Dervishes of Turkey.

Start, all kneel on sheepskin

In the stillness, it’s hard to believe that it was in Konya, in the 13th century, that the Dervish first whirled (click to enlarge photo’s).

The origin of the spinning ritual (or sema) is attributed to a widely revered holy man called Rumi, more popularly known as Mevlâna, meaning Our Guide or Sainted One. A devoted, but not orthodox Muslim, Rumi preached inclusivity, tolerance, love and respect for all, regardless of their religion.

One by One they remove their cloak & blessed to dance

An ardent advocate of Sufism (a mystical aspect of Islam), Rumi expressed his love for all humanity in his acclaimed writings and poetry, and his love for the divine in his spiritual and trance-like whirling. It’s said that Rumi first started whirling in one of Konya’s bazaars. Walking past a line of goldbeaters, he became so moved by the music. Their rhythmic hammering accompanied by their gentle chanting of Allah’s name. He raised his arm towards the sky and started to revolve in a state of awe, spinning and spinning until he reached oneness with his God.

Rumi then regularly repeated this dance in front of his followers, reciting his verses and poems as he reached a rapturous state.

 

These whirling dervishes are now the symbol of Turkey’s tourism campaigns. Many places across Turkey offer the dance but here is the real thing. Come to Konya and you come to Turkey’s soul.

In Rumi’s words:

Whoever you may be, come

Even though you may be

An infidel, a pagan, or a fire worshipper, come

Our brotherhood is not one of despair

Though you have broken

Your vows of repentance a hundred times, come.

The conference centre holds 2000 people and the dance involves around 28 dervishes. If you miss the Saturday performance (free) or if you are like us, you enjoyed it so much and you fancy a second. Then head over to the smaller building across the way. The Culture Centre holds a free weekly performance at 2.30pm. The arrangement is much smaller with seats for around 250 people. Both performances are slightly different but equally as good.

 


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