Have you ever missed the wrong junction and thought, dam! Only to then wander in to the most amazing place and think, thank god I missed that turn. Well that just happened to us whilst on our way in to Split.

We wandered in to the leafy area of Salona, which is situated at the base of the imposing Velebit massif. The church and its surrounding parkland with cascading streams, little stone bridges and baby chicks following mum, looked so peaceful. A complete contrast to the hustle and bustle of Split just a few miles down the road. A few hunger pangs and the smell of freshly baked bread got the best of us. We nip to the bakers, grab an assortment of pastries and enjoy a tranquil picnic in the park. A cool offshore wind makes the experience even more enjoyable.

Church & Park for picnic

Back on Eor the bike and off we go following the brown tourist signs. All in Croatian so not a bloody clue what they mean.  As we head further inland the houses start to pitter away. Eventually, a brown arrow points to the left.  We pull in to a deserted car park, park up and go for a mooch. An information board informed us we had wandered in to the remains of Salona. “Ah I remember this place from the guide book” Craig shouts. “It says it an average”.

We are not great one’s for archaeological sites.  Craig lacks the patience and I lack imagination required to visualise so much from so little. But the remains of Salona are rather enchanting. We spend two hours wandering around the provincial Roman settlement with archaeological finds on every turn. It was wonderful and easy to imagine how this city, this empire once lived. With few information points around the site, it tested our bearings. But when in doubt we just follow the crumbing city wall or overgrown gravel path.

Split in the background

Against the concrete sprawl of Split and the tanker terminals of the Adriatic coastline, rise a series of graceful ruins. Salona originally was a sheltered town on the Jadro River that was settled primarily by Illyrians and Greeks. In the 2nd century b.c. the Romans moved in, and eventually it became Rome’s administrative centre for the province of Dalmatia. It subsequently became the largest city on the eastern Adriatic coast.

During Diocletian’s reign, Salona prospered and the Romans undertook extensive building projects. Most notably a huge gate on the eastern boundary, a theatre, a forum with a temple consecrated to Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva. At the same time, Salona became a magnet for followers of various spiritual movements. According to the experts examining the ancient city’s archaeological remains they came from far and wide.  The immigrants brought their customs and beliefs with them from Egypt, Asia and Persia. The new Christian faith was also in the mix of emergent religions sprouting in Salona. The Diocletian wasn’t too keen on any religion other than pagan gods and claimed to be a descendant of Jupiter. Hence why Croatia has so many churches named Jupiter! 

Adriatic coast

The three-story amphitheatre, is especially imposing. Once seating more than 20,000 spectators, it served as the city’s primary entertainment venue.

amphitheatre

The elegant basilica, an outline of foundations and a grove of slender columns made from local stone. Surrounded by tiny mausoleums with grand and elaborate tombs. Between them piles of ruins and traces of a mosaic floor. Towards the rear, a memorial chapel containing the tomb of Domnio and successive bishops.  Beyond, small private chapels referred to as memories for affluent Christians.

basilica ruins

tomb

Such treasures would be dazzling enough in a museum, but to find them here. All but intact and largely unspoiled, where they were laid over 2000 years ago is almost unbelievable.  Unprotected from nimble fingers it is a worry these ruins will slowly be pilfered away. Thankfully, there are no crowds just a scattering of Italians, otherwise we have Salona to ourselves.