Fishing at sunrise

Knock knock….there’s somebody at the door! One of the park cleaners in bright blue wellies and a high viz coat stands to the rear of Vin. “Su su su” she says. Craig looks a little confused and repeats “su?”  She smiles “evet su”. Still non the wiser until she raises her hand and signals a drink. “Ah water” and with that we fill her a glass of water in return for a beaming smile. Minutes later she is back to work scrubbing the park spotlessly clean. 

Our route takes us through the centre of Cede were we stop for a bit of shopping. Options are limited but fresh bread, homemade jam and a form of Turkish brownie is in ample supply. The road out of the town is steep but at its peak we are rewarded. A restaurant from whose roof there is a fine panorama of the town, laid out across wide, steep slopes curving round a generous bay. Perfect for breakfast of bread and jam. 

Breakfast spot

The coastal drive along the D10 to Doganyurt is slow.  With just a thick base layer of tarmac the ripples in the unfinished road send shudders through Vin. The elevated road offers brief peaks down to deserted bays several hundred feet below. The rest of the time we are protected by overgrown bushes and trees with endless views of cloudless blue sky.  There is little traffic, which we are grateful as the narrow sections and some of the bends require careful negotiation. The Turkish call it this the Marla Coast with its slate like rock and stunning cliffs. A distinctive slate like volcanic rock that crumbs in to dust providing dramatic but equally frightening landslides.

Beautiful countryside

Today’s route

The weaving road hugs the coasts but our elevated drive makes it feel more like we are in countryside. Each ravine offering imposing terraces and outlines the old towns and villages.  Our journey continues east and the skyline is dominated by a pretty peaks of white minarets.  Mainly built of concrete, white washed with simple but beautiful islamic detail.

Our Bumble wild camping spot Gemiciler N041.973984, E033.888707

Our wheels park up at Gemiciler, a typical Black Sea harbour for this region. A massive man made breakwater which offers the town protection from serious storms and tidal waves especially during winter months. Even in summer you can see the swell rise and fall with crashing waves against the rocks.  We take a short walk along the harbour with the dudes and my new stick, which Craig whittled out of an disused chair leg. There are lots of wild dogs in Turkey and in the main they are friendly, but I would hate to cross a protective territorial pack. Hopefully, we will not have to use but better to be safe than sorry.

Before heading back, we walk into the village. Rustic and simple but highly functional. By night, the harbour front is very different, cars from nearby villages arrive filled with families. Four generations clamber out of pick ups and cars. Tata seem to be all the rave around this neck of the world.  A combination of Italian and Turkish manufacturer, but predominantly Turkish a passing local tells us. 

At sunset, the woman and children soak up the cool ocean breeze on the harbour wall whilst the men put the worlds to right. The tea houses slowly attract more and more customers. The shuttered windows are pulled to as the light slowly fades. Flumes of smoke waft across the car park. There is subdued chatter, some music, and the odd dog barking. Faints of laughter and the odd cheer as distant fireworks echo across the bay. Then a familiar smell drifts across to Vin, a sweet aroma, a whiff that takes us back to the rough pubs of home. Hashish. The men are busy getting stoned.